Trani to Gravina in Puglia

2 Jul

Today started out feeling quite warm so it was worrisome as we had a fair distance to travel (76 km) and some climbing as well. The first city we came to was Andria. We stopped in a park to rest and were met with curiosity by several people (we find this happens often as the bikes are unusual to see). One elderly gentleman on a bicycle who spoke no English offered to guide us through the city to the road that would lead us to our next stop. We happily followed him as our own route on the GPS looked difficult through the old part of town. It was very interesting to follow and observe how he navigated through the traffic. We learned that we should be less polite and more assertive (still in a safe way) use our space on the road, be clear of our intentions, and the traffic will usually yield to us. In Italy the drivers don’t often follow the rules but they also don’t expect others to either, so in a way they are more aware. They also are less uptight, you see very little road rage.
We rode from sea level up to the Castel del Monte (castle on the mountain) so the name is a good clue that it will involve elevation gain. 540 meters to be exact and in a fairly direct route, no switch backs. Also we were riding away from the refreshing coastal breeze so it was a hot one.
The castle is stunning however, well worth the climb. It’s another castle built by Frederic II back around1200, he built a few in Puglia. This one is the most distinctive though, constructed in an octagonal shape and geometrically perfect. He apparently had an interest in mathematics.
From there we were expecting rolling hills but instead had another hard climb, up another 300 meters or so onto the Murgia plateau, now midday so even warmer, about 30C. But eventually we got to have a free ride down off the plateau and into Gravina.
Our hotel here is most interesting, sort of like a cave but finished inside, see pictures below. The owner Francesco recommended a restaurant and a bar that is 4 floors down in the subterranean zone. We were given a tour of the place by a lovely and enthusiastic young woman who spoke about as much English as we speak Italian, so not much. But with the help of Google translate we got a good tour.
Next we went for our dinner at Osteria del Murgia. It was a memorable meal as the waiter and the owner brought us many things to try and we never saw a menu. The owner spoke English well and checked in on us regularly through the evening giving explanations about the foods. A delightful evening.