Our accommodation here is in the old city which is an island connected to the rest of the city by a 16th century bridge and guarded by the Castello. The old city is a maze of streets where it is not at all difficult to get lost. The city is completely occupied by homes and businesses however and it’s fascinating to see how it’s developed; layers going up, down and back from the streets, hidden walkways, staircases, terraces and gardens. The density is unlike anything we see at home. Some of the streets are dead ends and so become like small private piazzas, decorated eccentrically. And there are vehicles also using the narrow lanes; mostly Vespas but some small cars too. We saw numerous produce trucks selling to the inhabitants. There are small grocers and shops but maybe not enough. We visited more underground facilities here, ipogeo (Greek for ipo-under and geo-ground), only these ones were for olive pressing, called frantoio. They aren’t in use any more but were until people didn’t need to burn oil for light. The oil produced here was not for consumption. The poor workers in these places had to work long hours and on Sundays, which was a special “dispensation” from the Pope (thanks a lot Pope) at the time, in order to ensure good commerce. The hypocrisy of that is astounding.
Later we visited the Castello di Gallipoli which has recently had restoration work. Prior to this it had been left to deteriorate. It was surprisingly excellent as there was reasonably good English translation and they had added some interesting contemporary art
exhibits. Our favorite rooms were the circular ones as they reflected and amplified the sound in unexpected ways.
Some of the art displays were by M. Pistoletto. There were some mirror paintings which gives an interesting and changing perspective to the viewer. There was also a display using limestone blocks called the 3rd paradise that was food for thought. It represented our natural existence in nature as the first paradise, our modern high tech comfortable existence as the 2nd paradise, and how we need to try to join the first 2 into the 3rd paradise in order to sustain our existence on the planet.








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