geeteetravels

We made a quick exit from Marsala this morning so we could arrive in Selinunte with enough time to walk through the Archeological Park. It was a relatively flat ride so we made good time and were able to check in to our B&B early so that we didn’t have the bike to worry about. 

The ruins here cover quite a large area and there’s just one temple still standing the rest were knocked down by an earthquake in the 10th century. Many of the artifacts found here are on display in a Palermo museum so I guess we are going the wrong direction. But regardless there is much to see and admire here. It is a very picturesque location right on the coast. 

This is also a beachy town with a nice waterfront area. We had our supper looking out to the sea. 

Along the way from Marsala to Selinunte.

Reconstructed temple at Selinunte.

Stoic

Massive chaotic jumbles.

Selinunte selfie.

Ceramic Cinquecento

Compared to yesterday’s ride to Erice today was a walk in the park, all flat and only 40 kms, from Trapani to Marsala via the salt pans. The salt pans are possible where there are shallow areas on the coast, where it is hot and dry and the wind blows to power the windmills. Basically the sea water evaporates and the salt is harvested. The windmills operate water pumps and grind the salt. This industry had been going on for a very long time here as a way to preserve food prior to refrigeration. At one point they were exporting to all of Europe through Trapani, and salt was known as white gold. Not so much now but still some happening. We visited a museum along the way and learned how the premium sea salt we buy at home is produced by this ancient process. 

Then we were off to Marsala where we sampled some dry and sweet Marsala wine before dinner and saw a bit of the town. 

Salt pans on the way to Marsala.

The pans are different colours depending on salt concentration.

Una pausa caffè and a visit to the salt museum.

Windmills were for grinding the salt and powering screw pumps.

Looking back to Erice, the bici, and the salt pans.

This day was reserved for a special climb out of Trapani. It is clearly a well loved route of cyclists if you look at the Strava heat map (an indispensable tool for planning), and of fans of Sicilian pastry, which is basically everyone else. Erice is a hilltop town overlooking Trapani. I would maybe call it a small mountain instead. We climbed 712 meters over about 13 kms, so an average of 6% grade. We didn’t have our bags thankfully or we would still be climbing. The town is a bit of a tourist trap but we felt accomplished with the ride and we earned the pastries from the famous shop of Maria. The road was fairly quiet and full of lovely switchbacks but the Italian drivers can be crazy so you need to aware going around the blind corners. Of course the climb is also rewarded by fabulous views of Trapani and up and down the coast. The Norman castle overlooking everything was almost incidental given the ride and the views. 

The ride up caused some “glowing” on some while others just sweat like a pig.

The Norman castle and the view.

Looking back up to Erice from halfway down.

There are several pieces missing from this photo.

We left our exceptional B&B in Castellammare this morning and climbed up to the Segesta ruins. The Temple and the theatre are in remarkable condition considering that they were built around 430 BC. The temple was apparently never completed as there’s no evidence of a roof and there are still “tabs” on the stone blocks for carrying them to the building site. 

After a good look around we carried on climbing to Trapani, Sicily is a very hilly island😓.  Unfortunately we had a chain problem and had to do a link replacement at the side of the road, luckily there was a place to pull off. Good thing we have a mechanic on board, got it fixed in 20 minutes and andiamo. 

We had no trouble finding our new lodging, Secret B&B, tucked into a narrow street, and rising 4 floors with a roof top terrace. After a shower and laundry we were out in the middle of the passeggiata. Although it was still 25° the breeze off the Mediterranean meant we were eating inside again this evening, but no problem. 

Anyone seen a Greek temple around here?

Segesta Sicily, not Athens Greece!

The Greeks put the theatre here so they could survey the A29.

Maestro of the rubber gloves replacing a few bent links.

Heavy traffic as we made our way to Trapani.

Night falls on the Passeggiata in Trapani.

We are staying 2 nights in Castellammare so rode to the Zingaro park for a short hike. We don’t have great footwear for hiking so only walked in to the first beach for lunch and to take in the belvedere. It was a bit of a climb so we got our exercise anyway which was needed after the breakfast we were offered which was was amazing.  Unfortunately Tara had to turn most of it down but George was able to partake fully starting with a pistachio cream croissant followed by a freshly made omelette, bacon and a nutella crêpe, also fresh, and Italian coffees made to order. They thoroughly spoil their guests here. 

Anyway back to the park. The area is quite dry and barren looking, like the Kamloops Area. There are apparently many orchid species growing there as well as birds to see. We didn’t manage to see any of this, only the beach which was quite crowded and there was a fair bit of garbage in the water. Our guide book described it as unspoiled, I wouldn’t have said that but perhaps I didn’t go far enough in to appreciate it fully. It was a nice ride with good view of the ocean and island nonetheless. 

Looking back on Castellammare del Golfo.

No view without the climb, and we went up a switchback wall to get this one.

Down to one of several beaches in the Zingaro reserve.

A definite downside to Sicily is the garbage on land and in the sea.

Today was the first day day riding fully loaded and we certainly felt it. I think it’s the kilo of muesli we have to bring along for Tara’s daily breakfast (that’s not per day 😊).

We started to climb immediately toward Monreale, a suburb of Palermo, where another UNESCO site is located. The Cathedral there is a another example of the Arab Norman fusion, quite magnificent with gold tiling and mosaics filling every inch. I went in and had a look then sent George to do the same and take photos except he was refused entry due to his shorts. There were many others in shorts but not cycling shorts. For some reason the guard took exception to those (and not to the cutoffs on the teenage schoolgirls) but there’s no reasoning to be done with religious authority so no photos. Somehow I managed to get past them in. 

After Monreale we carried on over a pass, more climbing, then a fun ride down to il mare. Unfortunately we had to stop and fix a flat, but I don’t think we’ve had one in two years and the weather was magnificent for the occasion. Non c’è male! 

We cruised along the beach road mostly with a nice tailwind the last 15km to our b&b in Castellammare del Golfo. I have to say we got a fantastic reception upon arrival with cold beer and friendly enthusiastic hosts. A very nice supper down by the port and we’re in great shape for tomorrow. 

Cathedral in Monreale from the OUTSIDE only.

Look at those muscles… er.. the view coming out of the hills towards our destination.

Soon I’ll start a bad selfie collection.

Castellammare del Golfo is way out in the corner of the bay.

B&B parking spot with totally appropriate backdrop. Grazie!

Beautiful pink hills at sunset.

Today we got some assistance from Trenitalia.  We took a train from Catania to Palermo and now will ride back, otherwise it was too far for a 3 week holiday. The train was very empty so not a problem getting the bici grande aboard. 

We were both impressed by Palermo as soon as we arrived. Compared to Catania,  Palermo presents well. It is exotic with a north African flavor. There are several UNESCO world heritage sights that reflect the convergence of the arabic and norman styles.  There has obviously been much more effort spent here maintaining the monuments and the infrastructure. It is much more tourist friendly with a large vehicle restricted central area so you can wander without fear of being run down by crazy Italian drivers. We didn’t have much time but thoroughly enjoyed what we saw. If we had done more research we would have liked to have more time here but unfortunately our itinerary is set. Maybe another time?

We tried a bit of the street food Palermo is famous for: aranciata(deep fried rice balls) and panelle (deep fried ground chickpeas). Not my usual fair but delicioso. 

Cheating a little. Don’t tell.

The cattedrale was a great example of mixed architectural styles found in Palermo.

On the roof of the cattedrale looking towards tomorrow’s climb.

City gate

Detail on one of the city gates shows arabic influences.

Captured two cannoli and a limoncello in the nick of time. Too late for the espresso.

Our first shakedown, day trip ride took us on a loop north of Catania along the  coast and inland to the base of Etna. We climbed about 1000 meters over the 55 kms so a considerable effort right out of the gate.  As usual the traffic getting out of any city like Catania was heavy and the drivers not overly patient. They make more use of their horns the further south you go in Italy so the noise is considerable. I have to adjust to that every year, by the end it won’t bother me much. The whole area is densely populated, we were never really out in the countryside. The area just north of Catania is called the Riviera dei Ciclopi named because of the black volcanic rocks jutting out of the ocean, supposedly thrown by a blinded Cyclops in an attempt to stop Odysseus from escaping. It’s an area full of beaches, bars, hotels and tourists.  In Acicastello there was a crumbling Norman castle on the shore and in Acireale some cathedrals. We also saw a group of giant paper mache caricatures of the leaders who will be attending the upcoming G7 Summit in Taormina, just up the coast from here. We didn’t think the one of Trudeau looked much like him. Security is starting to be noticeable back in Catania so time for us to leave. We hadn’t heard there was to be a G7 in Sicily until last week so luckily it should not affect our plans.

Rocks thrown out to sea and the​ Norman castle behind Tara.

Tandem rider, Cathedral and G7 caricatures all in the same spot.

Volcanic ash must be slippery as all 2 wheelers are banned when it’s on the road.

View looking north towards Taormina.

The small hill is a volcanic pimple ; the big one is behind.

The Duomo looking better at night than in daytime.