geeteetravels

We arrived at Gatwick late last evening and were relieved that we had made the decision to stay at the hotel in the airport. This meant that we didn’t have to store the bike and get ourselves somewhere, we just checked in right there, no hassle. Our room is very interesting, sort of like a capsule. There’s room only for the bed and a small bathroom, the bike case barely fit. In the bathroom there’s no shower stall, the water comes out of the ceiling and drains away through the floor and everything gets wet. It feels a bit like sleeping in the campervan except there’s no window. 

We took the train into London (just a note for future trips, the oyster card can now be used to get in from Gatwick) and met with Erika briefly for lunch then spent a couple of hours in the Museum of London which is very close to Guildhall.  This is an excellent museum, free to visit. It is all about the history of the city from prehistoric times to the present. We only got through about half, we’ll have to return sometime.  Then we met Erika again along with Poul and Annette (George’s Danish cousin and wife) for dinner. We had a great visit then headed back to our capsule.  

Tomorrow home! 

Capsule hotel at Gatwick, a good plan for us.

We found Erika!

Our final day here was another day with perfect blue skies and warm weather. It has gotten considerably warmer in the past 3 weeks so again we’re thankful we came earlier this year or it would have been too hot, fa caldo! 

We spent the morning getting our things repacked and reorganized for the flight home. We left it all at the hotel for the day and set out for more exploring. Unfortunately it is a Monday so many things are closed but we were able to explore inside a Benedictine monastery originally from the 5th century but repurposed many times since. It was almost completely destroyed first by an eruption of Mt. Etna in the early 1600’s then by an earthquake in 1693. It is currently being used as a university. 

After our last pizza and caprese salad lunch in an outdoor pizzeria watching the Italian drivers break as many driving and parking rules as possible we found a gelateria and enjoyed an ice cream cone strolling down Via Etnea. We then had a look inside the Cattedrale di Santa Agata on the main piazza where Bellini’s remains are. 

There are many interesting and beautiful things to see in Catania but still I felt that the city has a long way to go to improve it’s appearance. It is scruffy looking as soon as you leave the main tourist areas and even the monuments look as if they need a good scrub. Other parts of Sicily were also this way but some were immaculate. But overall we thoroughly enjoyed our giro of Sicily, maybe we’ll return again in another 30 years?

The monastery

My favourite saint

Intricately carved altar

Our last day of riding started auspiciously with a flat tire before we had even begun, at the B&B, so at least it wasn’t at the side of the road. But that was the only snag, the rest of the way was uneventful. It was actually a bit boring as we rode through a large industrial area with many oil refineries. We didn’t even even go through any cities or towns so had to stop at the gas station for drinks and WC. 

Anyway we made it back unscathed but feeling like it was too short.  It would have been nice to linger a bit longer in most of the places we visited. Our left luggage was waiting for us in our room and we disassembled the bike for the trip home. 

For supper we returned to a restaurant that we enjoyed at the beginning of the trip: Trattoria Ufucularu. We don’t know what the word means, probably Sicilian, but the food is excellent. So good that we were too full for dessert. 

Yoghurt with Sicilian lemons – the best!

We made it!

Aperitivo in front of the Teatro Massimo Bellini

Last supper in Sicily

Love that elephant’s smile

What’s wrong with this picture?

No riding today so a bit of a sleep in and leisurely breakfast. The other couple staying here are French but could speak English reasonably well (better than our French, we seem to have forgotten French) We had a nice chat with them over breakfast. 

We first took a bus tour around the major sights for an overview.  It’s so nice to let someone else drive. After a pizza lunch overlooking the ocean we started wandering around to see the various churches, more ruins, and museums. St. Lucia is the patron saint of Syracuse so many things are dedicated to her in the churches. There is a Caravaggio painting of her burial in one chiesa that was astounding. We also took in the Archimedes/da Vinci museum and learned many interesting things about their inventions that we mostly still use today. Archimedes was born in Syracuse so a famous guy everywhere but especially here. 

Ortygia is very fun just to wander around in so we did that too. People watching was at its peak since it’s the weekend and tourist season is just getting going. Of course like every Saturday there are many weddings complete with beautiful bridal couples, family and friends hugging and kissing, everyone dressed up, fancy cars and Vespas all shined up. In the late evening there was a performance art concert with a singer/pianist and a painter performing free on stage, and a big crowd to watch. One last canolo and off to bed. Buona notte. 

Another terrible day in Sicily.

I’d be satisfied with the runt that goes in the side garage.

The church with the Caravaggio; note the loaded lemon trees.

Roads so narrow the Fiats stop and think about it.

And narrower yet; see the tandem parked further in.

A little music, a little painting…

Today’s ride was mostly quite fast as we had a tail wind and little climbing.  We even passed a peloton of young Italian men, who were just mozying along for sure on their super light bikes, and George certainly put on the gas as we overtook them.  They had a lot to say as we passed (not sure what it was) and we expected them to chase us but they didn’t surprisingly.  We stopped in Noto on the way to Syracuse and spent a few hours there admiring baroque churches and palazzi, climbing towers, people watching and eating granite (gra-nee-tay, not the rock). It is a beautiful place and a UNESCO world heritage sight, as is Syracuse.  

In Syracuse we are staying on the island of Ortigia which is the first part of the city that was settled by the Corinthians way back in 734 BC. The roads and walkways are incredibly narrow and windy, it’s very easy to get lost, but adds to the flavor of the place. We spent a little time exploring in the evening, will have tomorrow to do a better job. 

For supper George decided to try polpo, whole (octopus). Appetizing? 

The Cattedrale in Noto seen from a great lunch spot.

Baroque architecture everywhere in Noto.

Climb the bell tower for the view.

The Cattedrale di Siracusa in stunning light.

The octopus looked better 5 legs ago.

What goes well with whole young octopus? A local grape ale works well.

A fast easy ride today with almost no climbing which was good as Tara was feeling a little under the weather. We followed the coastline for much of the route so enjoyed the view as well as the sea breeze and the odd bar for lemon soda and caffé.  It has been quite warm most days, usually 26 – 30 degrees C.  It gets much hotter as summer approaches so it’s good we came earlier this year. We have also noticed that there are less tourists. We continue to follow the SIBIT bike route (part of the Euro Velo) which usually takes us down quieter roads.  This area of Sicily is much cleaner and better maintained than other areas although the vegetation often crowds us on the shoulders so in fact there’s little shoulder. 

We happened unexpectedly upon a memorial to Canadian soldiers from WW2 today when we stopped to rest in some shade. This specifically mentioned the sacrifices of several named soldiers upon the first landing to take over Sicily and was very much appreciative. It must be a bit awkward for the Sicilans since under Mussolini they were fighting the Canadians, Americans, and British who landed in July 1943. We have seen other war memorials here that were funded by Sicilians who emigrated to Canada post WW2. Apparently there were many people specifically from the Pachino area that emigrated to Canada.  We also chatted with a British woman who was born here then her family moved to England after the war because of a poor economy and few prospects. 

Our bike always attracts much attention but it feels even more so here. Whenever we stop people stare at us, it’s awkward. Occasionally they talk to us but often communication is difficult. Little boys have few inhibitions and will often shout out things like “bellissimo or guarda la bicicletta tandemo”, or something like that. I may not have it quite right. 

Pachino is known for cherry tomatoes so we went to find some for supper. We did. Unbelievable sweet tasting pomodorini in a simple salad with basil and capers. Perfetto! 

Hot on the magnificent coast but cold drinks are available.

Still hotter but a moments rest and a little shade helps.

The touching memorial to Canadian soldiers who died for a cause.

Tradition!

Passeggiata in Pachino in the central piazza.

The sweetest tomatoes in the world!

Today’s ride took us from the coast up to the cities of Ragusa and Modica. Both of these places have two distinct sections of modern and old.  The old sections were both heavily damaged in an earthquake in 1639.  Following the earthquake the cities were relocated higher up but eventually the lower areas were restored also. They are both known for their baroque architecture and churches. We weren’t able to get inside any of them but could admire the exteriors as well as great views of the lower cities. 

It was a longer, harder day than expected due to the heat and a few route miscalculations, about 70 kms and 975m gain, so we were pretty worn out by the time we got back to Marina di Ragusa. This was a pannier-less ride thank goodness. 

For our supper tonight we found a French creperie, a nice change.  It was delicious.

A view of Ragusa Ibla from the upper newer Ragusa.

Caffè e canolo break.

The lovely Duomo in Ragusa Ibla.

Piazza selfie with Duomo.

Part of the Modica panorama with another triple layer Duomo.

Massive euros have been spent on highways in Sicily.

Today’s ride was easy, only 55 kms and little climbing. The only problem was that we got rained on a little, nothing torrential, just enough to justify buying and carrying rain covers for the panniers. The temperature was actually perfect for riding, no worries about having enough water or finding shadey spots to rest. 

Again we saw endless fields of fruit and vegetable crops all protected by the poly tunnels. They certainly have a good agriculture industry. We also rode to Punta Secca where the filming of the house of Inspector Montalbano takes place. That series is very well known in the area and attracts much attention from tourists. When we approached Marina di Ragusa we suddenly had the most beautiful and well maintained bici path we have seen in all of Italy, a stark contrast from the arrival into Gela the day before. This town is a lovely resort location by the ocean that is bustling with activity, clean and inviting. 

One of thousands of plastic covered greenhouses growing all manner of vegetables.

The fancy new pannier covers pulled into action.

La casa di Montalbano at Punta Secca.

Now it’s a much wanted B&B.

Genuine bike and pedestrian tracks coming into Marina di Ragusa.

We stopped in Gela because it was too far to go to our next destination in one day. It was a fairly long ride, 85km, with some climbing and heat too so we were worn out when we arrived. 

We saw lots of wheat fields and produce farms along the way. We saw a combine out cutting down the wheat already, a bit ahead of Canada. The fruit and vegetables are often covered by poly tunnels so not so scenic, but we spied some artichokes in the wild. The other thing we see often is rubbish heaps as we’ve talked about before. It’s a shame, it really mars the landscape, and it’s all over Sicily.

The B&B we stayed at was nice, very clean and modern with a big balcony for the bike and a view of the ocean.  But the city itself was run down looking with few tourists or tourist sites. We were the only ones staying there that night, there were 4-5 other rooms, and the restaurant we ate at was empty during our meal. Apparently it is or used to be a mafia hotspot. We were happy to leave in the morning however we had a lovely breakfast and a nice chat with the host before setting out. 

Carciofi (artichokes) in the fields here.

Polytunnels allow for a year round growing season,and there are lots of them.

Not as dangerous a road as the sign suggests.

Winter wheat? Maybe several crops a year?

The bike was hauled up the stairs and parked on the balcony.

For our final day here we went to the archeological park called the Valle dei Templi, just 3 km from where we are staying. It turned out to be a free admission day being the first Sunday of the month, we’ve noticed this before but never seem to hit it right. We expected it to be packed with people but it wasn’t too bad. We were here 34 years ago when we were heading to Africa on a ferry out of Trapani. We have a picture of George standing in front of a column from then so we spent the day trying to find the particular spot but weren’t successful unfortunately. Either something has been changed or it was from another site, but we’re pretty sure it was from here. George hasn’t changed much at all. 

Anyway it was another fascinating trip back in time to about 500 BC. We saw several mostly intact temples, artifacts, foundations, tombs,  aquaducts and the Kolymbethra Garden which has been restored to what it is believed to have been like. We saw many almond, pistachio, and citrus fruit trees in the gardens and around the site in general. The Sicilans eat a lot of these types of nuts. The almonds are fresh and delicious, they taste like marzipan even without the sugar.  (one of the few nuts I can have)

In need of a haircut and a shave?

Some things are too big to cover up.

Ancient relics well preserved.

Temple of Dioscuri and Agrigento behind.

Temple of Concordia with Goddess.

Question of the day.