Royan

Today’s ride from Bourcefranc to Royan was one of the most pleasant and scenic rides we have ever done, which is many over the last 11 years. The entire day was on a Velodyssey route again and it took us through a forest (Forêt de la Coubre) and then along a coastal trail all the way to Royan. In the forest it was wonderfully cool and shaded and it lasted about 12 kms. Then we were on the coast riding past huge beautiful uncrowded beaches, seaside cities and towns, sail boats on the ocean, lovely stone villas at Pontilliac, lighthouses and many people on bikes. And did I mention that it’s quite flat here? This is a cycling paradise.

Our property rental in Royan is quite grand, literally. It is much bigger than we are used to and comes equipped with a full kitchen, garden, dishwasher and washing machine! It is about 5 minutes from the waterfront as well.

We learned that in January 1945 Royan was accidentally bombed by the Allied forces due to a mistaken communication. They had planned to bomb it in an attempt to rid the city of German occupiers.  Unfortunately they weren’t aware of the fact that the Germans had already left and the civilians had not been evacuated resulting in the destruction of the city  and hundreds (maybe thousands) of Royan residents killed, a sacrificial city, such a tragedy. As a result the city looks much more modern than most European cities due to reconstruction in the 50’s. We visited the Notre-Dame church of Royan and the central market, two notable buildings from the reconstruction phase. The market is bright and open with an elevated sail-like roof with slots to let in the light. The church is unusual for Europe in that it is modern. It is a tall concrete structure that is easily visible from afar and striking to see especially at night when lit up. The stained glass and artwork inside is also modern.

We spent a couple of hours on the beach too and both had a dip in the Atlantic. Seems just as salty as the Pacific. The sand is much finer here than in Hawaii so if the wind comes up the sand goes everywhere, even in your mouth. The beaches are huge, plentiful and not crowded. This is supposed to have been where the sunbathing and beachwear fashion business began early in the 20th century.

Our final day in Royan turned into a rainy/rest day. It’s better to have rain days when you don’t have to get somewhere. This is a comfortable apartment so not a bad place to hang out, read, plan for future destinations and practise our French. We did head out for a short ride in the afternoon when it lightened up a bit to see some sights down the coast from here but didn’t get too far before the rain started again.

Tags: 2022, Aquitaine