Arcachon

We left early from Hourtin as we had 80kms to do and make it to the ferry over to Arcachon by 3:30pm as we were meeting Erika around 5pm. She flew to Bordeaux from London today then took the train to Arcachon.

The ride followed the Velodyssey Atlantic for most of the way except the first 15 kms or so, but still a cycle track. The first 12 were on an old train bed turned bike path so was boringly straight and monotonous. By the end of this bit we both felt we had seen enough of these man-made row planted forests. We are lucky to have natural forests at home. Following that bit we were still in the forest but it was rolling and curvy often with intersecting paths that led from/to the ocean and sand dunes. At times the paths are pretty bumpy thanks to the tree roots so we had to keep the speed down a bit.

Anyway we made it to the ferry with almost an hour to spare which was good as it took time to figure out the tickets. This is a small boat, no cars but bikes are ok though not free, the tandem cost extra and we had to unload the panniers so it could be hoisted onto the boat.

The ride over across the basin gave us a great view of the Dune de Pilat, a giant sand dune that we will visit while here, as well as the city and coast.

We found our property rental quite easily and gained entry. It’s a small apartment right on the water and very central. Next we went to the train station and met Erika who we will spend a few days with. She will be helpful as my personal interpreter.

The next morning we took a boat tour of the basin where we learned about oyster farming as well as looking at the coastal areas and some of the fancy homes on the water. It was a nice way to spend a few hours on a beautiful morning.

We spent a couple of hours on the beach close by. We did a bit of “wave walking” and sat in what little shade we could find. We haven’t much for beach equipment, like parasols, just some multipurpose cotton towels, hats and sunscreen.

Late in the afternoon we did our evening promenade in the “winter village”. This is an exclusive area in Arcachon elevated above the city and basin lined with elaborate Belle Epoch style homes. Apparently they were built in the late 19th/early 20th centuries for wealthy families and their servants to live during the winter months while recuperating from tuberculosis.

The next morning we rented a single bike and the 3 of us rode south of Arcachon to the Dune du Pilat, a huge sand dune area about 10 kms away. Erika wasn’t keen to ride the single bike so she went on the tandem with her dad and I rode the rental “comfort” bike. The sand dune was an amazing sight, as big as any we had seen before when crossing the Sahara desert. The view from the top of the Dune was spectacular! The day was quite hot, about 37 degrees, but a bit cloudy so that helped.

We had dinner that evening at a Bretagne creperie. We all had a sarrasin crêpe with cidre, very satisfying.