geeteetravels

Today’s ride was the longest this year, 95km, but not too hard as it was mostly flat. We have had much harder days on other trips. However the heat does make it a bit challenging, we were careful to stay well hydrated. 

Our mileage should only have been 88km but we had a hard time getting started as we were trying to connect with the eurovelo track like we did 2 days prior. We eventually found it but it was more suited to a mountain bike so we abandoned it for the highway but later rejoined it when it was paved. Again a nice ride away from traffic with our own private path. We made it there in about 5 hours with a couple good breaks. 

After the clean up we wandered around the old town, found supper and gelato then back to the hotel for a well earned repose. 

We haven't seen a field of sunflowers since France a few years ago

Weird lunch stop at a park and apparently a cat refuge

A panorama of the central piazza in Ferrara

Savonarola was a nasty man, and maybe a dementor

Having a Mary Poppins moment in Via Mazzini

Ferrara is a fascinating place, it is like being transported back to the Renaissance in places. The architecture in the old city is so well preserved that you can almost imagine that world. 

We started the day with a ride around the old city on top of the ancient walls surrounding it. In some places it’s more of a dike as the wall is gone but there’s a pathway around most of it, like there is in Lucca. 

After lunch we spent the afternoon looking in one of the palazzos here and then the castle. These both were built starting about 1200 by the ruling Este family who remained powerful in this area until 1600. Both were very well done with lots of translated text to help.

We also spent time exploring  the streets of Ferrara. One was decorated with umbrellas, maybe to celebrate spring? Another was full of old archways and lanterns, very medieval looking.  

Via della Volta, with medieval arches along its length

Trapped in the dungeon of the Castello in Ferrara

In the garden of oranges of the Castello

Umbrellas during the daytime

We started the day with a 90 minute boat tour of 2 of the 3 lakes here that surround the city. They are actually artificial lakes, originally used for city defence, made by directing water from the Po  and Mincio rivers. It was a very enjoyable ride around the lakes, into a protected wet land area and then down the Mincio River a little ways. We saw many different birds,ducks, swans, herons and leaping fish. 

After that and some lunch we toured the Palazzo Te with its lavishly decorated and frescoed rooms, gardens and other collections. 
Our lodging here was a bed and breakfast located right in the heart of the old city so everything was close.

A beautiful morning beside the Lago di Mezzo

Heading on to the boat

The view of the Ducal Palace which was unfortunately closed on Mondays

Into the natural area down the river

Hiding at the Palazzo Te

Today’s ride was almost entirely along the Eurovelo 7 route, one of several recognized routes that cover Europe by bicycle.  This one was an actual bike path that followed beside the Mincio River. We had some trouble getting onto the path initially, went around in circles a few times but eventually got there. It was a pleasant and quiet ride without the cars, although close to the cities the path was heavily used by cyclists. There were a few charming spots along the route to stop for breaks and refreshments along with all the other cyclists.

Once into Mantova (Mantua in English, accent on the first syllable) we found our bed and breakfast which was right in the centre of the old city. A lovely place run by a lovely host named Barbara. We had time before supper to start exploring the many attractions here. We looked at the main basilica and the clock tower.

Fishing along the Mincio river

A handy break stop for a lot of cyclists

This! is a public totally out in the open bike repair stand.

Mozying along beside the river

Investigating the inside of the clock tower

The dome of the Basilica of Sant'Andrea. Our B&B room is the upper window just to the right of the scaffolding

Today we rode from Peschiera to the spit of land that juts into Lake Garda on the southern end. At the end of the point there is the town of Sirmione where you find a large area of spectacular Roman ruins called grotta di catullo as well as a 13th century castle. It’s also a place overrun with tourists (including us) and especially today as there was a triathlon going on. It was another blistering hot day (glad we were not part of the race) that ended with thunderstorms but we made it back to the hotel before it started.
The hotel we are staying in is more of a restaurant really with 5 rooms upstairs that they let. We had both of our evening meals there because the food was quite good and not full of tourists but locals. That’s usually a good sign.

Looking back to the main land from Sirmione

It's bloody hot especially in the Castello

Swallowtail ramparts are a stylish touch to the castello

The smart ones were out in the water today

Great little restaurant and staff with a few rooms; ideal place for us

After a nice rest day in Riva we rode around the remainder of the lake today stopping in Peschiera. It was a picturesque ride along the shores passing through many towns and resorts, seeing many sunbathers, sailors, boaters, ducks and swans. We could also see where we rode through all the tunnels a few days earlier from the other side of the lake. It was a very hot and humid day, water just poured out of us so when we arrived at our hotel we headed right to the lake for a refreshing swim.

The tunnel/vertical road we climbed a few days ago

Girl scout with the reflective sash

As we are staying 3 nights in Riva del Garda we decided to do a loop north out of Riva into the valley. We did a steep climb up to Drena (without the bags so somewhat easier) where there was a castle to see. The road we took was perfectly paved, more like a path through the forest than a road. Only one or two cars passed us, we practically had it to ourselves. After Drena we stopped at Lake Cavedine and watched the windsurfers before heading back to Riva.

Castello di Drena

I love the handmade brick insets in the switchbacks for traction

Big time selfie

A lovely small lake for windsurfing

The ride today was one of the best yet. We rode along the shores of the lake, through many tunnels (up to 2.4 kms long) and a side trip up the James Bond road. This is a road used to film the beginning of the movie “Quantum of Solace”. It’s a steep switchback type road that winds it’s way up the side of a sheer cliff to a small town with several areas that hang out over the mountain to give you an amazing view of the entire area. The road itself is also very fun to ride with natural tunnels, waterfalls, forest and streams. Definitely a highlight. After the climb we had a free ride down into Riva.

A lot of tunnels so we are well lit and reflective

It’s getting a bit tight, luckily very little traffic

A lot of vertical and very little horizontal

The view paid in full by the climb

A large limonata above Limone sul Garda

It was a manageable ride today with a bit of climbing before descending down to Lake Garda. We took a ferry across the lake to Toscolano Moderna, a lakeside resort town, not too much to see, but picturesque and relaxed.
One notable thing about this area is that they are able to grow lemons here with care and the help of lemon houses which support and protect the trees. It’s apparently the most northernmost place where citrus fruit is grown.

Cominciamo! We begin!

Arriviamo al Lago di Garda; We made it to the lake

Looking down to the ferry point - Torre del Banaco

The ferry gave us a short cut across the lake

Aperitivo time in Toscolano Moderna; watch out for the Aperol spritz

Our first day of the trip was spent worrying about our bikes and luggage as they didn’t arrive with us. Luckily they weren’t far behind, getting to the hotel the next day with enough time to assemble them before leaving the following morning. It would definitely put a damper on our holiday if there were no bikes.
In Verona we enjoyed seeing the Roman coliseum which is regularly used for concerts and operas. We plan to see La Traviatta there when we return in a few weeks. We also visited an exhibit there about Maria Callas. We got rained on a bit in Verona but it cleared up nicely for the start of the riding.

A 3 euro umbrella does the job

When in doubt take the train

More amphitheatre

Frescoes of many varieties abound in Verona