geeteetravels

Taking a train with a lungo bici can be tricky. We try to be prepared and read all the rules but in Italy you can never be sure. Trying to determine if we need to pay the supplement or not and which car has the bici storage area (front or back) and where to wait so you can get on quickly as they only stop for a few minutes, and then get the paniers on the train also. It is stress inducing. Anyway we managed to get to Ventimiglia with the bicycle and bags but it took most of the day.

We are staying in a bungalow in a campground which is different than usual. We have our own kitchen and small patio so we can buy food for some meals and store food in the fridge rather than buying daily.

We did go out for supper though to a place called Basta Pasta (enough pasta). The servings were so large we brought the leftover home for supper tomorrow. I had a pesto and green bean sauce, George had carbonara. It was delicious.

Today we started heading to the far west side of the trip, Ventimiglia at the French border. First we had to climb our way out of Lerici to get back along the Riviera Levante and then we plan to catch a train the rest of the way tomorrow morning. It was another warm day with over 800m of climbing but we made it without a hitch. We saw a lot of cyclists on the peaceful upper road we were on, and little other traffic so it was lovely.

We’re staying overnight at a hotel in Lavagna with half board (meaning dinner and breakfast included). This is a good deal if the food is high quality and this evening it was.

Today we did a ride around the Lerici area climbing up to Montemarcello, down to Bocca di Magra then to Tellaro and finishing at the beach in Fiascherino.

Tellaro looks very much like one of the Cinque Terre villages except very quiet and peaceful not full of tourists. It is literally at the end of the road along the coast.

We had to work hard to go swimming in Fiascherino. The beach was at the bottom of a switchback staircase that we had to carry the bike down, but the swim was very refreshing.

Today was a slower day, no riding, slept in a bit. After breakfast we took a ferry ride across the golf to Porto Venere. This is a beautiful little port with tall colorful houses facing the water. These houses were actually part of the defensive wall at one point in history. There’s also a castle and a couple of churches to see. One of these churches dates from the 1300’s and is situated right out on the point.

We tried to do a short hike above the town but only went about 45 minutes before it started to pour. We found a small forest refuge/restaurant (of course) luckily so we didn’t get soaked. It stopped raining fairly soon so made our way back to town and went for a walk along the waterfront before heading back to Lerici on the ferry.

Leaving Lerici behind on the quick trip to Porto Venere.

An inspirational spot for Lord Byron apparently but could be for anyone.

The ride today started with a steep climb of about 575 meters out of Levanto to the road that runs above the Cinque Terre. There were some 12% grades and lots of 8-10%, so a bit tough for an hour or so but as George always says, there’s no view without the climb. The views of the villages were spectacular. This is one of the best roads we have encountered in all of our bicycle trips, see the photos that follow.

After the Cinque Terre area we descended to La Spezia and then rode to Lerici around the golfo dei poeti, so named for the famous residents – Byron and Shelley. We found our new abode for the next 3 nights, a very small hotel with just enough room to park the bike in the office. Again we are on the sea and George went in for a dip before the evening walk and supper.

Today we took a short ride from Levanto west on an old railway converted to a bike/pedestrian pathway running along the coast to Bonassola and Framura. The majority of the time was spent in a tunnel but it did open up frequently to give us glimpses of the Mediterranean and hidden coves and beaches. Also tunnels are cool so it was a refreshing ride.

In Bonassola we had our first swim in the Mediterranean and enjoyed the beach for an hour or so, just long enough for George to get a sunburn on all the places he had no sunscreen.

Later in the day we did a self guided walking tour of Levanto and took part in the evening passagiata before finding our supper.

Those rocks are not only sharp but burning hot!

The beach in Levanto

Three colourful palazzi along the waterfront in Levanto

Find the flying girl in this picture

On the Levanto – Framura cycle path, only about 6km but well done

No riding today, we took a train into the first of the Cinque Terre (5 Lands) Monterosso. Suddenly we were in a busy tourist area the second we stepped off the train. It reminded us of Venice and Rome with many Americans, Japanese and Chinese. After a short look around the town we found the trail that takes you to the 2nd village of Vernazza. The trail is lovely with many steps to climb through the forest and some vineyards and orchards also. We enjoyed this very much. The trail was somewhat busy, not bad though, 3 kms long and took us about 90 minutes. The view of the villages from the trail was spectacular. The highlight of the area is seeing the villages from the trails or from the water. The actual villages, once you’re in them, are typical of many Italian villages we have visited with many eateries and shops, not so interesting. Vernazza also had a castle to climb up to give us a good vista.

After a nice lunch in the main piazza we took the train to the last village Riomaggiore and explored there with plans to take a boat back to Levanto to see the area from the water but unfortunately the water was rough so the ferry was not operating. So the train was our only option.

We chose only to go to 3 villages as it seemed enough for us, too many people!

Bougainvillea love it here

Looking back at Monterosso as we hike towards Vernazza

Heading up on the trail to Vernazza

There could be trolls here

Vernazza in the distance

Walking down into Vernazza

Riomaggiore

The coastline here rises sharply from the water, vertically in many places, so there is no nice flat shoreline road at all times. We knew that when we planned the trip of course but this would be our first trip inland in order to get to Levanto which is a kind of gateway to the Cinque Terre. Unfortunately these colds we picked up are hanging on so we’re not in top shape but away we went. The coastline here is truly remarkable in its beauty and there’s no view without the climb so we were distracted as we pushed.

We stayed low on the coast for the first 20km or so and then started inland and up at Sestri Levante. The road was great and much quieter off the coast, very little traffic. We rode through pine forests in silence except for a bit of chain noise and heavy breathing as we gradually came on top of the ridge. Then we floated along for awhile until plunging down to the sea and Levanto in the last 10km. We are staying here for three nights so we get a rest and a chance to see the Cinque Terre.

Up in the pine forests

At this point we still had a lot of climbing left

The morning view from our hotel in Rapallo

Coming down the mountain into Levanto

The first ride of the trip and getting out of the city can be stressful but it went relatively smoothly and was uneventful. We followed the coastal road or just above it all the way to Camogli where we started climbing over to the Portofino area. It was fairly steep and slow in places but thankfully not too long. We were rewarded with a spectacular vista of the Golf of Tigullio once over the top. We rode to Portofino before going back to Rapallo where we were staying. Portofino is a very exclusive area on the Italian Riviera. The are many big private yachts and fancy villas. We couldn’t find an affordable place to stay there thus opted for Rapallo. This is also a nice beach town to enjoy the ocean and the waterfront walks. The hotel is quite dated but adequate as it faces the water and gives a good view of the area.

The hotel offered a deal that included the evening meal as well as breakfast. We decided that the food wasn’t their forte.

Buena notte. We’re off to bed early and hopefully can sleep off the last of the cold we managed to pick up, probably from the plane.

White Oleander are everywhere; super fragrant, beautiful and highly toxic!

Ready to go

Just one of the tiny bays between Rapallo and Portofino

The picturesque coast on a remarkably calm and hot day

Tara is loving being in Santa Margherita di Ligure

We have seen ‘trompe l’œil’ on many buildings; moreso than elsewhere in Italy

Portofino harbour

Our last half day with the Danes involved more Palazzo exploring, a nice lunch and a goodbye beer. The lunch was from a bit of a hole in the wall place with a very friendly chef/owner. We pondered the menu for a bit and then were invited to choose by sight in the kitchen. Finally he shooed us out and said he’d bring us a good mix of everything which worked fine.

We said goodbye to my wonderful cousins with promises of a ‘cousinefest’ next year in Denmark. Then it was time to build the bike. The easiest place to do that was our room as there was no parking garage or other suitable spot.

All put together again

A fine and interesting lunch

Almost built

Palazzo Reale, looks like a nice place for a supper with a hundred of your closest friends