geeteetravels

The last ride of the tour is always filled with mixed feelings. Sadness that all good things must end, anticipation of going home, newly developed memories… And of course – there are always more Chateaux to see.

Fall is in the air (8 degrees overnight) so we lingered over breakfast chatting with our most gracious and kind hosts. Back on the road it was an easy ride to Bordeaux passing over some of the roads we had been on coming north. Not much new and notable except an open water swimming race on the outskirts of Bordeaux, and a very easy transition into the city on separated bike paths.

After hanging about on the busy Bordeaux waterfront, people watching and cooling our feet in the miroir d’eau we rode the final kilometer. We were welcomed back to the B&B where we began by our genial host, and where our bike case was waiting for us, a very comfortable lodging. Bordeaux seemed to be quite alive with people for a Sunday evening and we had no problem finding an open restaurant, in this case Moroccan for a couscous and tagine (and Moroccan wine).

Our final day in Bordeaux was spent disassembling our vélo and repacking for a train/plane trip home. We also managed to visit a few more sites in the city including the Musée des Beaux-Arts and some more églises. It is easier to absorb the city and it’s attractions when you are not jet lagged, maybe something to consider for future trips.

Nous espérons un bon voyage à Calgary et d’autres voyages dans les années à venir.

Tags: 2022, Aquitaine

The ride to Saint-Estèphe was a pleasant one through vineyards, past many beautiful chateaux and on small quiet roads. It wasn’t that far either, only about 40kms. When we first started out from Castelnau it appeared to be very smokey but it was also due to fog. Once we had ridden about 20 minutes it lifted completely, the sky was clear again. We learned that the wildfire was now under control.

We made a side trip to Fort Médoc on the west side of the estuary. We visited the corresponding citadel opposite this one on the east bank a few weeks ago in Blaye. Both forts were designed by the famous military engineer Vauban on the orders of King Louis XIV. These two forts and a third, Fort Pâté in the middle of the estuary on a small island, were described as the “bolt” to protect France from enemy attackers sailing from the Atlantic towards Bordeaux. They needed the fort in the middle because of the limited range of their artillery.

The rest of the ride was spent admiring the chateaux and gardens along the way. I thought it was interesting that the château gardens we saw appeared lush and green yet there has been a drought this year. A few of our hosts have talked about not being able to water their gardens yet here they were clearly watering regularly. What happened to Liberty, Equality and Fraternity?  There is clearly much profit in the wine business. (It turns out that the Medoc region has not had it as bad and does not have restrictions).

The next two days after wonderful petit déjeuners on the rooftop terrace we followed routes through the region to look at many different chateaux. The rides took us again on quiet little roads through vineyards and small villages. It is a bit hillier in here but still quite easy compared to some other places we have cycled. Also the weather has quite suddenly become fall like and cooler so perfect for cycling.

We can’t really visit the chateaux and do tasting when riding, we need our wits about us. The roads are fairly quiet but still some cars and many tractors around. It is harvest time so lots of activity and grape pickers. We have now seen many of the automated grape picking machines, very interesting to watch. They still require many grape pickers though. The older vines are too fragile and don’t recover as well from the automated pickers so harvest must be done by hand. We have seen huge numbers of what appears to be foreign workers speaking Spanish and other languages here to pick grapes. The are living in trailers and tent villages set up in empty fields or other spaces.

Although we have enjoyed this area of the Médoc peninsula very much it isn’t quite geared for travel by bicycle. It is a predominantly rural area so there are less businesses catering to tourists such as restaurants and hotels. We have struggled a bit with getting evening meals so have mostly resorted to buying prepared meals and heating them up where we are staying, and having a nice bottle of the local wine of course. Our hosts Eva and Bernard are very friendly and encouraged us to use their kitchen to prepare our food, so not much trouble getting nourished.

Tags: 2022, Aquitaine

The ride today turned into somewhat of an adventure. We started late as we were sending Erika back to Bordeaux for her flight home and she didn’t leave until noon. We started with another ferry ride back over to Cap Ferret and onto the velodyssey route again. About 20 kms in we started to notice a big smoke plume ahead, something George had noticed the day before but didn’t think too much about. At 30kms we hit the first road block, spoke with the Gendarmes and were advised to go north around the wildfire. We got to the next town and again we were stopped by a road closure and had to head farther north to circumvent the trouble spot. This time we didn’t get stopped, we got through to our next destination but rode an extra 20kms in +30 degrees, arriving about 6pm rather than 4pm. This is one disadvantage to cycle touring, it’s not always easy to add on extra mileage. It was a bit smokey along the road but not too bad.

We got into our room and cleaned up then headed out to forage for food. It turns out that this is another “not happening place” with little to offer for restaurants that were still open. It was a Tuesday and usually it’s just Sunday and Monday that are a problem but here it includes Tuesday. We found one place, a Japanese sushi place and we had to convince them to sell us some takeout food as he was strapped being the only open food establishment in town. Perhaps travelling in the shoulder season in small places isn’t wise. The sushi was good though.

The next day we decided to relax in the morning after our stressful day yesterday. The air was smokey, felt like home for the last few summers. In the afternoon we rode east, away from the fire and the forest, toward the Margaux vineyard area. We saw many beautiful chateaux and stopped at one for a tour in English. It was interesting to learn about the the different types of grapes, the barrels, the wine making process and finally tasting a few different ones. We had room for one demi bottle in the rack pack to accompany our supper.

Because of all the trouble we had finding a meal yesterday we decided to play it safe and buy some prepared food from the grocery store and eat at the auberge in the garden. It was a quiet and pleasant evening.

Tags: 2022, Aquitaine

We left early from Hourtin as we had 80kms to do and make it to the ferry over to Arcachon by 3:30pm as we were meeting Erika around 5pm.  She flew to Bordeaux from London today then took the train to Arcachon.

The ride followed the Velodyssey Atlantic for most of the way except the first 15 kms or so, but still a cycle track. The first 12 were on an old train bed turned bike path so was boringly straight and monotonous. By the end of this bit we both felt we had seen enough of these man-made row planted forests. We are lucky to have natural forests at home. Following that bit we were still in the forest but it was rolling and curvy often with intersecting paths that led from/to the ocean and sand dunes. At times the paths are pretty bumpy thanks to the tree roots so we had to keep the speed down a bit.

Anyway we made it to the ferry with almost an hour to spare which was good as it took time to figure out the tickets. This is a small boat, no cars but bikes are ok though not free, the tandem cost extra and we had to unload the panniers so it could be hoisted onto the boat.

The ride over across the basin gave us a great view of the Dune de Pilat, a giant sand dune that we will visit while here, as well as the city and coast.

We found our property rental quite easily and gained entry. It’s a small apartment right on the water and very central. Next we went to the train station and met Erika who we will spend a few days with. She will be helpful as my personal interpreter.

The next morning we took a boat tour of the basin where we learned about oyster farming as well as looking at the coastal areas and some of the fancy homes on the water. It was a nice way to spend a few hours on a beautiful morning.

We spent a couple of hours on the beach close by. We did a bit of “wave walking” and sat in what little shade we could find. We haven’t much for beach equipment, like parasols, just some multipurpose cotton towels, hats and sunscreen.

Late in the afternoon we did our evening promenade in the “winter village”. This is an exclusive area in Arcachon elevated above the city and basin lined with elaborate Belle Epoch style homes. Apparently they were built in the late 19th/early 20th centuries for wealthy families and their servants to live during the winter months while recuperating from tuberculosis.

The next morning we rented a single bike and the 3 of us rode south of Arcachon to the Dune du Pilat, a huge sand dune area about 10 kms away. Erika wasn’t keen to ride the single bike so she went on the tandem with her dad and I rode the rental “comfort” bike. The sand dune was an amazing sight, as big as any we had seen before when crossing the Sahara desert. The view from the top of the Dune was spectacular! The day was quite hot, about 37 degrees, but a bit cloudy so that helped.

We had dinner that evening at a Bretagne creperie. We all had a sarrasin crêpe with cidre, very satisfying.

Tags: 2022, Aquitaine

Our ride from Royan to Hourtin started with a short ferry ride across the Gironde Estuary to Verdon on this big peninsula between the Atlantic and the estuary. The Velodyssey #1 route runs right down the coast here and into Spain, which is what we are currently following. It is easy cycling I must say, hardly any climbing, which I don’t mind when we are carrying all our gear and food/water for the day.

Most of the route today was through forested areas and some right against the Atlantic ocean. There are lots of sand dune areas and again huge beaches. Today was blustery and the water was wild with big waves. No swimmers seen but there were a few brave souls out kite surfing. A lot of the forests here are not natural, instead they have been planted in rows, quite funny looking. We have seen a few deer but nothing else. I don’t think there are bears here thankfully. We also see old bomb shelters and bunkers along the coast from WW2, more reminders of difficult times. It does put the Ukraine/Russia conflict into perspective.

We are staying in a campground on Lac de Carcans-Hourtin for a couple of nights in a cute little camping cottage. This is the largest fresh water lake in France but not that big by Canadian standards. We had hoped to hope to do a little paddleboarding or some other lake activity but the weather didn’t co-operate. Instead we had another rest day and just wandered around the port and the town a bit. We saw some people kite surfing on the lake and some others learning some trick wakeboarding in a small pond being pulled by a mechanical tow rope.

It looks like better weather for the next several days as we head south to Archachon to meet Erika who is flying from London to meet us for a few days.

Tags: 2022, Aquitaine

Today’s ride from Bourcefranc to Royan was one of the most pleasant and scenic rides we have ever done, which is many over the last 11 years. The entire day was on a Velodyssey route again and it took us through a forest (Forêt de la Coubre) and then along a coastal trail all the way to Royan. In the forest it was wonderfully cool and shaded and it lasted about 12 kms. Then we were on the coast riding past huge beautiful uncrowded beaches, seaside cities and towns, sail boats on the ocean, lovely stone villas at Pontilliac, lighthouses and many people on bikes. And did I mention that it’s quite flat here? This is a cycling paradise.

Our property rental in Royan is quite grand, literally. It is much bigger than we are used to and comes equipped with a full kitchen, garden, dishwasher and washing machine! It is about 5 minutes from the waterfront as well.

We learned that in January 1945 Royan was accidentally bombed by the Allied forces due to a mistaken communication. They had planned to bomb it in an attempt to rid the city of German occupiers.  Unfortunately they weren’t aware of the fact that the Germans had already left and the civilians had not been evacuated resulting in the destruction of the city  and hundreds (maybe thousands) of Royan residents killed, a sacrificial city, such a tragedy. As a result the city looks much more modern than most European cities due to reconstruction in the 50’s. We visited the Notre-Dame church of Royan and the central market, two notable buildings from the reconstruction phase. The market is bright and open with an elevated sail-like roof with slots to let in the light. The church is unusual for Europe in that it is modern. It is a tall concrete structure that is easily visible from afar and striking to see especially at night when lit up. The stained glass and artwork inside is also modern.

We spent a couple of hours on the beach too and both had a dip in the Atlantic. Seems just as salty as the Pacific. The sand is much finer here than in Hawaii so if the wind comes up the sand goes everywhere, even in your mouth. The beaches are huge, plentiful and not crowded. This is supposed to have been where the sunbathing and beachwear fashion business began early in the 20th century.

Our final day in Royan turned into a rainy/rest day. It’s better to have rain days when you don’t have to get somewhere. This is a comfortable apartment so not a bad place to hang out, read, plan for future destinations and practise our French. We did head out for a short ride in the afternoon when it lightened up a bit to see some sights down the coast from here but didn’t get too far before the rain started again.

Tags: 2022, Aquitaine

We are stopping in this ville only for a night on the way to Royan which was too far to ride in one day. Bourcefranc is situated just before the island Olèron.

The route took us back to Rochefort then farther south and west. Again we spent most of the day on a Velodyssey route. We’ve gotten spoiled with bike lanes and cycle routes on this trip. Our cycling friends Katharine and Rob would love riding here. Sometimes the terrain is less than smooth or on gravel but overall good for riding.

This time we crossed the Charente River on the easier bridge, the Transbordeur. It was recently reopened after 4 years of renovation. We arrived there about 1pm but the 2 staff members were having their “dejeuner” so we had to wait an hour to cross. It was interesting to see all the different cyclists gathering here with us to wait. There was no signage about this midday rest, instead the operator had to keep telling people from his lunch table that he would start again at 2pm, it seemed odd, another strange French thing.

We rode through a lovely little town with an ancient fort named Remparts de Brouage. It is one of many in France with a classification as a Beaux Village. It wasn’t a planned stop, just happened to be on the route, a great place for a rest and refreshment. It’s main street was called “rue de Québec”.

Much of this area is salt marshes, and full of small canals. As we were going by a canal parallel to the bike trail we saw an animal in the water that may be a muskrat? After the google research we thought it might be a Nutria but we’re still not sure. What do you think? At any rate the Princess Bride movie came to mind (rodents of an unusual size).

We arrived at Bourcefranc and got into our apartment easily this time. However we soon found out that just about everything was closed due to it being a Sunday. If the city is smaller and not a tourist attraction then it’s difficult to find a place to eat or buy groceries. We were worried that we may have to have oatmeal porridge for supper, we always carry that for Tara’s breakfasts. We eventually found a Chinese buffet takeout (Panda King) that we had to get back on the bike and ride to about 3km away. We need to pay more attention to travelling on Sundays. No gourmet French food for us tonight but we didn’t go hungry.

Tags: 2022, Aquitaine

Today’s ride from Rochefort to LaRochelle was entirely on the Velodyssey, the French section of the European cycle route system, so no cars at all to speak of, only bikes. The temperature was about 25 Celsius, much more comfortable. Also the ride was relatively short, only about 48kms so our legs and butts were feeling fine.

On the way out of Rochefort we rode past an interesting bridge: a platform suspended on cables running back and forth over the river. This is actually the way we should have come into Rochefort, not over the big car bridge that we did. After about 20km we came to the coast of the Atlantic ocean. We have seldom been anywhere near the Atlantic so it was exciting to see. The first thing we noticed was that there were large open sandy beaches, just like in North America. Along the Mediterranean and Agean the beaches are mostly covered with privately owned areas covered with lounge chairs and umbrellas where you pay for access. It was the perfect lunch stop.

We arrived in LaRochelle easily and located our accommodation. We have found that it is sometimes a bit of a puzzle to gain entry as these apartments are not necessarily manned, rather done without any human contact, just a lock box on the outside. This was again the situation. It is good in terms of Covid but not so good for helping people orient to the area. For this one and the previous one the hosts appear to be on site but then say that they are unable to greet you for some reason. Possibly it helps them avoid paying extra taxes if it is less like a hotel. (just our theory)

We spent the evening and the next day exploring around the LaRochelle harbour and old town. This is a beautiful city! So many tourists here and so many restaurants, all surprisingly full. There doesn’t appear to be any Covid here. 🤔

The entrance to the harbour is dominated by 3 towers, one of which is a lighthouse. There are also many arcaded streets so that the vendors could sell their goods during bad weather. We learned there is a strong connection to Quebec (New France) here due to being an eastern port of Europe with much trade back and forth (furs, wine, salt and slaves from Africa-yikes!) Samuel de Champlain was born here in 1567 and sailed from this area in the early 1600’s to establish New France. He died in Quebec. One of the streets in La Rochelle is cobbled with stones from Quebec. The stones were used as ballast on the ships sailing back to France.

The following day we rode over a big bridge from La Rochelle to the île de Ré. This island is right beside the city and a very touristy destination with several seaside towns, beaches, shops, camping, oyster farms, salt marshes and a network of cycling trails like nothing ever seen before. We happened to go on a Saturday so it felt like everyone was on a bike. This is a good thing for the most part but some riders just don’t know how to behave so we had to be alert. Nevertheless we had a wonderful day of riding around this beautiful island. It was especially nice to ride sans paniers, we felt light as a feather.

Tags: 2022, Aquitaine

The ride from Cognac to Rochefort was much better than the one to Cognac. It was similar in scenery but slightly cooler and a bit cloudy so more comfortable. The route mostly followed the Charente River and was mostly on quiet rural roads. We did accidentally end up on a 4 lane highway briefly so that wasn’t good but it was short-lived. Sometimes our GPS gives us confusing directions and then before you know it you are not where you want to be and can’t easily escape.

We both are completely recovered from jet lag and other ailments so feeling pretty strong. However the last 15 or 20 kms always feel hard and your butt starts to ache. Today was no exception. Our bags feel so heavy by the end of the day even though we have done everything we can think of to minimize/economize.

We were able to find and get into our accommodation. This one was more of a self serve situation so not as interesting people wise. We did go to a restaurant recommended by our Cognac hosts and it was exceptional with a view of the marina.

We had a quiet day to rest and do laundry but also managed a walking tour of the port/marina area and the city. Rochefort isn’t on the ocean but is on the Charente River which leads to the ocean so there are lots of ocean going water craft here. The most important attraction here is the “L’arsenal des Mers” which is a naval base complete with a Royal Corderie or rope making workshop. There is also an interesting display about the construction of a very authentic replica of an 18th century frigate that followed the voyage of the original ship in 1779 to America during the American Revolution. General La Fayette was also on a voyage of the “Hermione” to fight in Canada (New France) so there is a connection.

We learned that in 1967 there was a a musical filmed here with Catherine DeNeuve and Gene Kelly called Les Demoiselles de Rochefort. It appears to be a claim to fame here, we saw several references to the movie around the city, we will have to watch it sometime.

Tags: 2022, Aquitaine

We left Blaye in good time when it was still coolish. The first few hours were pleasant, again riding through mostly vineyards as well as some lovely bike paths through forested areas. We are often riding on parts of the EuroVelo routes which are are established bike routes throughout Europe. Sometimes they are pathways, sometimes small rural roads.

Unfortunately the day got very hot, we had to ride almost 80kms, it was a Sunday, and we were riding in a very rural area. So with still 30 kms to go, 35 degree temperatures, and no open bars for cool refreshment and recovery possible we arrived in Cognac completely spent. To make matters worse George was struggling with an upset stomach so wasn’t at his best. At one point he took a drink of warm water from his water bottle and almost vomited (not true – GG)😝.

Luckily (or not, George does choose our accommodations carefully) our B&B host was ready for us and provided ice and refreshment immediately as well as help finding somewhere to eat supper. We had a light meal and hit the sack early for a well earned rest.

After a good sleep we were ready to explore Cognac. Obviously this is where they make the liquor cognac and there are several companies that produce it. I only recognized a couple names (Remy Martin and Hennessy) as I am not a connoisseur. We went on a tour of one of the oldest companies that is housed in an old chateau/castle where King Francois the first was born and lived back in the 15-16th century. I enjoyed hearing about the history of the building, less about how they make the cognac. I think for others it was the opposite.  At the end of the tour you could taste the cognac, which I didn’t like, could not manage to even finish the sample. C’etait trop fort pour moi! 😝. George enjoyed his. Later that evening we tried the other specialty of the area: Pineau des Charente which is like port or a fortified wine. This was very nice. 🍷😊

Cognac is a lovely little city situated on the Charente River. We enjoyed wandering around the old city area that has many ancient homes, fortresses, and gates dating from about the 16th century. It is amazing to think about how long people have lived in the very buildings we are visiting today, and we complain about poor wifi or AC.

Tags: 2022, Aquitaine