geeteetravels

We arrived at Gatwick late last evening and were relieved that we had made the decision to stay at the hotel in the airport. This meant that we didn’t have to store the bike and get ourselves somewhere, we just checked in right there, no hassle. Our room is very interesting, sort of like a capsule. There’s room only for the bed and a small bathroom, the bike case barely fit. In the bathroom there’s no shower stall, the water comes out of the ceiling and drains away through the floor and everything gets wet. It feels a bit like sleeping in the campervan except there’s no window. 

We took the train into London (just a note for future trips, the oyster card can now be used to get in from Gatwick) and met with Erika briefly for lunch then spent a couple of hours in the Museum of London which is very close to Guildhall.  This is an excellent museum, free to visit. It is all about the history of the city from prehistoric times to the present. We only got through about half, we’ll have to return sometime.  Then we met Erika again along with Poul and Annette (George’s Danish cousin and wife) for dinner. We had a great visit then headed back to our capsule.  

Tomorrow home! 

Capsule hotel at Gatwick, a good plan for us.

We found Erika!

Our final day here was another day with perfect blue skies and warm weather. It has gotten considerably warmer in the past 3 weeks so again we’re thankful we came earlier this year or it would have been too hot, fa caldo! 

We spent the morning getting our things repacked and reorganized for the flight home. We left it all at the hotel for the day and set out for more exploring. Unfortunately it is a Monday so many things are closed but we were able to explore inside a Benedictine monastery originally from the 5th century but repurposed many times since. It was almost completely destroyed first by an eruption of Mt. Etna in the early 1600’s then by an earthquake in 1693. It is currently being used as a university. 

After our last pizza and caprese salad lunch in an outdoor pizzeria watching the Italian drivers break as many driving and parking rules as possible we found a gelateria and enjoyed an ice cream cone strolling down Via Etnea. We then had a look inside the Cattedrale di Santa Agata on the main piazza where Bellini’s remains are. 

There are many interesting and beautiful things to see in Catania but still I felt that the city has a long way to go to improve it’s appearance. It is scruffy looking as soon as you leave the main tourist areas and even the monuments look as if they need a good scrub. Other parts of Sicily were also this way but some were immaculate. But overall we thoroughly enjoyed our giro of Sicily, maybe we’ll return again in another 30 years?

The monastery

My favourite saint

Intricately carved altar

Our last day of riding started auspiciously with a flat tire before we had even begun, at the B&B, so at least it wasn’t at the side of the road. But that was the only snag, the rest of the way was uneventful. It was actually a bit boring as we rode through a large industrial area with many oil refineries. We didn’t even even go through any cities or towns so had to stop at the gas station for drinks and WC. 

Anyway we made it back unscathed but feeling like it was too short.  It would have been nice to linger a bit longer in most of the places we visited. Our left luggage was waiting for us in our room and we disassembled the bike for the trip home. 

For supper we returned to a restaurant that we enjoyed at the beginning of the trip: Trattoria Ufucularu. We don’t know what the word means, probably Sicilian, but the food is excellent. So good that we were too full for dessert. 

Yoghurt with Sicilian lemons – the best!

We made it!

Aperitivo in front of the Teatro Massimo Bellini

Last supper in Sicily

Love that elephant’s smile

What’s wrong with this picture?

No riding today so a bit of a sleep in and leisurely breakfast. The other couple staying here are French but could speak English reasonably well (better than our French, we seem to have forgotten French) We had a nice chat with them over breakfast. 

We first took a bus tour around the major sights for an overview.  It’s so nice to let someone else drive. After a pizza lunch overlooking the ocean we started wandering around to see the various churches, more ruins, and museums. St. Lucia is the patron saint of Syracuse so many things are dedicated to her in the churches. There is a Caravaggio painting of her burial in one chiesa that was astounding. We also took in the Archimedes/da Vinci museum and learned many interesting things about their inventions that we mostly still use today. Archimedes was born in Syracuse so a famous guy everywhere but especially here. 

Ortygia is very fun just to wander around in so we did that too. People watching was at its peak since it’s the weekend and tourist season is just getting going. Of course like every Saturday there are many weddings complete with beautiful bridal couples, family and friends hugging and kissing, everyone dressed up, fancy cars and Vespas all shined up. In the late evening there was a performance art concert with a singer/pianist and a painter performing free on stage, and a big crowd to watch. One last canolo and off to bed. Buona notte. 

Another terrible day in Sicily.

I’d be satisfied with the runt that goes in the side garage.

The church with the Caravaggio; note the loaded lemon trees.

Roads so narrow the Fiats stop and think about it.

And narrower yet; see the tandem parked further in.

A little music, a little painting…

Today’s ride was mostly quite fast as we had a tail wind and little climbing.  We even passed a peloton of young Italian men, who were just mozying along for sure on their super light bikes, and George certainly put on the gas as we overtook them.  They had a lot to say as we passed (not sure what it was) and we expected them to chase us but they didn’t surprisingly.  We stopped in Noto on the way to Syracuse and spent a few hours there admiring baroque churches and palazzi, climbing towers, people watching and eating granite (gra-nee-tay, not the rock). It is a beautiful place and a UNESCO world heritage sight, as is Syracuse.  

In Syracuse we are staying on the island of Ortigia which is the first part of the city that was settled by the Corinthians way back in 734 BC. The roads and walkways are incredibly narrow and windy, it’s very easy to get lost, but adds to the flavor of the place. We spent a little time exploring in the evening, will have tomorrow to do a better job. 

For supper George decided to try polpo, whole (octopus). Appetizing? 

The Cattedrale in Noto seen from a great lunch spot.

Baroque architecture everywhere in Noto.

Climb the bell tower for the view.

The Cattedrale di Siracusa in stunning light.

The octopus looked better 5 legs ago.

What goes well with whole young octopus? A local grape ale works well.

A fast easy ride today with almost no climbing which was good as Tara was feeling a little under the weather. We followed the coastline for much of the route so enjoyed the view as well as the sea breeze and the odd bar for lemon soda and caffé.  It has been quite warm most days, usually 26 – 30 degrees C.  It gets much hotter as summer approaches so it’s good we came earlier this year. We have also noticed that there are less tourists. We continue to follow the SIBIT bike route (part of the Euro Velo) which usually takes us down quieter roads.  This area of Sicily is much cleaner and better maintained than other areas although the vegetation often crowds us on the shoulders so in fact there’s little shoulder. 

We happened unexpectedly upon a memorial to Canadian soldiers from WW2 today when we stopped to rest in some shade. This specifically mentioned the sacrifices of several named soldiers upon the first landing to take over Sicily and was very much appreciative. It must be a bit awkward for the Sicilans since under Mussolini they were fighting the Canadians, Americans, and British who landed in July 1943. We have seen other war memorials here that were funded by Sicilians who emigrated to Canada post WW2. Apparently there were many people specifically from the Pachino area that emigrated to Canada.  We also chatted with a British woman who was born here then her family moved to England after the war because of a poor economy and few prospects. 

Our bike always attracts much attention but it feels even more so here. Whenever we stop people stare at us, it’s awkward. Occasionally they talk to us but often communication is difficult. Little boys have few inhibitions and will often shout out things like “bellissimo or guarda la bicicletta tandemo”, or something like that. I may not have it quite right. 

Pachino is known for cherry tomatoes so we went to find some for supper. We did. Unbelievable sweet tasting pomodorini in a simple salad with basil and capers. Perfetto! 

Hot on the magnificent coast but cold drinks are available.

Still hotter but a moments rest and a little shade helps.

The touching memorial to Canadian soldiers who died for a cause.

Tradition!

Passeggiata in Pachino in the central piazza.

The sweetest tomatoes in the world!