geeteetravels

We left our exceptional B&B in Castellammare this morning and climbed up to the Segesta ruins. The Temple and the theatre are in remarkable condition considering that they were built around 430 BC. The temple was apparently never completed as there’s no evidence of a roof and there are still “tabs” on the stone blocks for carrying them to the building site. 

After a good look around we carried on climbing to Trapani, Sicily is a very hilly island😓.  Unfortunately we had a chain problem and had to do a link replacement at the side of the road, luckily there was a place to pull off. Good thing we have a mechanic on board, got it fixed in 20 minutes and andiamo. 

We had no trouble finding our new lodging, Secret B&B, tucked into a narrow street, and rising 4 floors with a roof top terrace. After a shower and laundry we were out in the middle of the passeggiata. Although it was still 25° the breeze off the Mediterranean meant we were eating inside again this evening, but no problem. 

Anyone seen a Greek temple around here?

Segesta Sicily, not Athens Greece!

The Greeks put the theatre here so they could survey the A29.

Maestro of the rubber gloves replacing a few bent links.

Heavy traffic as we made our way to Trapani.

Night falls on the Passeggiata in Trapani.

We are staying 2 nights in Castellammare so rode to the Zingaro park for a short hike. We don’t have great footwear for hiking so only walked in to the first beach for lunch and to take in the belvedere. It was a bit of a climb so we got our exercise anyway which was needed after the breakfast we were offered which was was amazing.  Unfortunately Tara had to turn most of it down but George was able to partake fully starting with a pistachio cream croissant followed by a freshly made omelette, bacon and a nutella crêpe, also fresh, and Italian coffees made to order. They thoroughly spoil their guests here. 

Anyway back to the park. The area is quite dry and barren looking, like the Kamloops Area. There are apparently many orchid species growing there as well as birds to see. We didn’t manage to see any of this, only the beach which was quite crowded and there was a fair bit of garbage in the water. Our guide book described it as unspoiled, I wouldn’t have said that but perhaps I didn’t go far enough in to appreciate it fully. It was a nice ride with good view of the ocean and island nonetheless. 

Looking back on Castellammare del Golfo.

No view without the climb, and we went up a switchback wall to get this one.

Down to one of several beaches in the Zingaro reserve.

A definite downside to Sicily is the garbage on land and in the sea.

Today was the first day day riding fully loaded and we certainly felt it. I think it’s the kilo of muesli we have to bring along for Tara’s daily breakfast (that’s not per day 😊).

We started to climb immediately toward Monreale, a suburb of Palermo, where another UNESCO site is located. The Cathedral there is a another example of the Arab Norman fusion, quite magnificent with gold tiling and mosaics filling every inch. I went in and had a look then sent George to do the same and take photos except he was refused entry due to his shorts. There were many others in shorts but not cycling shorts. For some reason the guard took exception to those (and not to the cutoffs on the teenage schoolgirls) but there’s no reasoning to be done with religious authority so no photos. Somehow I managed to get past them in. 

After Monreale we carried on over a pass, more climbing, then a fun ride down to il mare. Unfortunately we had to stop and fix a flat, but I don’t think we’ve had one in two years and the weather was magnificent for the occasion. Non c’è male! 

We cruised along the beach road mostly with a nice tailwind the last 15km to our b&b in Castellammare del Golfo. I have to say we got a fantastic reception upon arrival with cold beer and friendly enthusiastic hosts. A very nice supper down by the port and we’re in great shape for tomorrow. 

Cathedral in Monreale from the OUTSIDE only.

Look at those muscles… er.. the view coming out of the hills towards our destination.

Soon I’ll start a bad selfie collection.

Castellammare del Golfo is way out in the corner of the bay.

B&B parking spot with totally appropriate backdrop. Grazie!

Beautiful pink hills at sunset.

Today we got some assistance from Trenitalia.  We took a train from Catania to Palermo and now will ride back, otherwise it was too far for a 3 week holiday. The train was very empty so not a problem getting the bici grande aboard. 

We were both impressed by Palermo as soon as we arrived. Compared to Catania,  Palermo presents well. It is exotic with a north African flavor. There are several UNESCO world heritage sights that reflect the convergence of the arabic and norman styles.  There has obviously been much more effort spent here maintaining the monuments and the infrastructure. It is much more tourist friendly with a large vehicle restricted central area so you can wander without fear of being run down by crazy Italian drivers. We didn’t have much time but thoroughly enjoyed what we saw. If we had done more research we would have liked to have more time here but unfortunately our itinerary is set. Maybe another time?

We tried a bit of the street food Palermo is famous for: aranciata(deep fried rice balls) and panelle (deep fried ground chickpeas). Not my usual fair but delicioso. 

Cheating a little. Don’t tell.

The cattedrale was a great example of mixed architectural styles found in Palermo.

On the roof of the cattedrale looking towards tomorrow’s climb.

City gate

Detail on one of the city gates shows arabic influences.

Captured two cannoli and a limoncello in the nick of time. Too late for the espresso.

Our first shakedown, day trip ride took us on a loop north of Catania along the  coast and inland to the base of Etna. We climbed about 1000 meters over the 55 kms so a considerable effort right out of the gate.  As usual the traffic getting out of any city like Catania was heavy and the drivers not overly patient. They make more use of their horns the further south you go in Italy so the noise is considerable. I have to adjust to that every year, by the end it won’t bother me much. The whole area is densely populated, we were never really out in the countryside. The area just north of Catania is called the Riviera dei Ciclopi named because of the black volcanic rocks jutting out of the ocean, supposedly thrown by a blinded Cyclops in an attempt to stop Odysseus from escaping. It’s an area full of beaches, bars, hotels and tourists.  In Acicastello there was a crumbling Norman castle on the shore and in Acireale some cathedrals. We also saw a group of giant paper mache caricatures of the leaders who will be attending the upcoming G7 Summit in Taormina, just up the coast from here. We didn’t think the one of Trudeau looked much like him. Security is starting to be noticeable back in Catania so time for us to leave. We hadn’t heard there was to be a G7 in Sicily until last week so luckily it should not affect our plans.

Rocks thrown out to sea and the​ Norman castle behind Tara.

Tandem rider, Cathedral and G7 caricatures all in the same spot.

Volcanic ash must be slippery as all 2 wheelers are banned when it’s on the road.

View looking north towards Taormina.

The small hill is a volcanic pimple ; the big one is behind.

The Duomo looking better at night than in daytime.