Today’s ride was really our first good ride, yesterday’s was just a warmup. We rode through several interesting hilltop cities: Ostuni, Cisternino, Locorotondo, Martina Franca, and finished in Alberobello. The cities have a Greek flavor, all constructed with whitewashed stones and almost glowing from a distance. The terrain was quite hilly also between the cities and was mostly rural areas full of orchards growing olives and all kinds of fruit. The roads were absolutely charming, narrow with stone fences. The farm houses and barns are also built with stones and stained white but in a distinctive conical shape. They are called “trulli”. Many have been renovated and are now beautiful homes and guest houses. We are staying in one in Alberobello.
Torre Santa Sabina to Alberobello
26 JunBrindisi to Torre Santa Sabina
25 JunWe had a bit of a slow start due to needing to pack things away to store while we ride for the next few weeks. Then we immediately managed to get separated from our riding buddies before we even left the city and spent a half hour reconnecting. Brindisi is an interesting port city with some ancient Roman influence.
But soon we were on our way north up the Adriatic coastline enjoying the beautiful azure water and rugged shores. We stopped for lunch and waded in but it wasn’t hot enough to swim. It was a windy day, of course against us, but we weren’t going too far so it was okay and kept us cool.
Torre Santa Sabina is a small beach resort town on the coast, nothing much to see except an old tower of course, once used for defence purposes. We stayed in a lovely hotel close to the water.
Off To Italia
24 Jun03:30 comes early regardless of the time zone you’re in, but that’s how it goes with a 06:20 flight from Gatwick to Brindisi. We checked in to easyjet once we got the bikes out of the left luggage office and went to find breakfast. Our breakfast was a bit leisurely perhaps as we heard our names being called to the gate. We did make it to the plane however and arrived to cloudy but hot weather in Brindisi. We figured out the local bus was €1 to central Brindisi as opposed to multiple other expensive options and off we went. The B&B we had booked was fine and we got the full touristic scoop from Giuseppe the proprietor. Rob and I assembled the bikes outside amidst the occasional light shower (what? rain on our hot dry holiday!) and espresso break. Later we found the local TIM store to purchase a SIM card for the phones and found where the local Conad (with a C) food store was for purchasing tomorrow’s lunch supplies.
We followed Giuseppe’s restaurant recommendation to Siamo Fritta (we are fried) to have some local fish and wine. We selected a fat looking sea bass from a platter of fresh fish and sent him away to be poached in water, olive oil and tomato. Beautiful, and a local wine pairing was exceptional too. I love this country.
More London
23 JunThe next two days we spent visiting and exploring parts of London we hadn’t seen before. We always take the tube for transport when we are here but it can be expensive so we tried catching a bus downtown. That started well but 50 minutes later crawling along Whitechapel road which was totally torn up with construction we gave up, got off, and caught the tube the rest of the way in. The girls rode into town using the ubiquitous bike rentals and only got lost once. Lyndsay has the system figured out. If you dock the bike back into any of the racks within half an hour it’s free. Then you immediately take out another bike and ride another half hour and never pay. We met at Victoria station and then off we went to Hampton Court by train.
Hampton Court is one of the royal palaces near London. It was the home of Henry the VIII and its 500th anniversary is being celebrated this year. Since the weather was reasonable we wandered the grounds and gardens rather than going in. There is a maze (Harry Potter’ish) we tried and an ancient and huge grape vine to wonder at, as well as as the formal gardens.
The evening was spent with Anette, the wife of my cousin Poul, at their flat at Limehouse basin. This is a historic and picturesque spot connected to the Thames by its own lock. There are several canals that go off from here and it is really a wonderful spot to live.
Tuesday we met all three daughters near Guildhall, Erika’s alma mater, and had lunch chosen from one of the kiosks/food trucks that spring up at that time every day. Erika had a gig that afternoon but we went with the other two to explore the National Gallery and National Portrait Gallery. Lyndsay convinced us to go by bike, in the heart of London, on the wrong side of the road, destination Trafalgar Square. What could go wrong? I am happy to say it was uneventful and we survived. London has great cycling infrastructure but with 8 million people it’s still a bit crowded. After supper we said our goodbyes and took the train to Gatwick for a one night nearby hotel stay due to the early flight the next morning.
London
21 JunWe arrived in England at Gatwick airport, 2 am Calgary time or 9 am local time, feeling less than chipper after only sleeping what felt like 5-10 minutes. We searched both terminals for the left luggage service for our bikes and finally got rid of our load before heading into the city.
The daughters headed to their sister’s flat to rest and we sought out our hotel. We were early though and decided to kill time wandering around West Ham Park where we found a cricket match and a garden to entertain us. We were definitely dragging though and soon found a bench to rest on.
We had a short rest once into our room then met the girls again, snacked, then set out for Liverpool station to meet with Erika for supper. She had been busy rehearsing for her latest show Bugsy Malone.
Finally we got to go to bed, we lasted until 9 pm. Tomorrow hopefully we will feel back on track.
It’s Time to Ride – Puglia 2015
18 JunAt last we are about to start a new tandem cycling trip! Katharine, Rob, Tara and I (George) will be heading to the heel of Italy this year, another location that promises to be hot, dry, and plentiful of excellent food and wine. Here is the route below; we arrive in Brindisi on June 24th and head northeast up the coast. We are spending a couple of days in London first where we will be with all of our daughters(!) for the first time since Christmas, before they go off on their individual adventures/lives. Stay tuned. GG
Bergamo to Milan, Circuit Complete
24 JunOur last day of the route! It seems we had just started and already it was done. Today’s ride was getting out of Bergamo and negotiating traffic again for the first hour but then we followed a canal path all the way into Milan. Thus a very quiet and easy ride with many great sites to stop and enjoy. At one point an older gentleman on a bike took us on a small tour of his town including some old frescoes. We couldn’t communicate well but enjoyed the sites nonetheless. Getting into Milan was easier coming from the north and being on the canal, only the last little bit was in heavy traffic.
Once again we met our daughter and her boyfriend there, they had taken a quick train ride from Bergamo. We enjoyed another look around Milan and our last gelato before taking the bikes apart and packing up for the long journey back home tomorrow. Another successful tour in Italy with our tandem cycling amici!
Arrivederci until next year.
Como to Bergamo
23 JunWe had to climb a big hill to get out of the city but otherwise just rolling hills for the ride today. Once again our GPS’s were not agreeing and we ended up taking different routes but all made it in the end. It’s becoming a funny thing as Rob and Katharine seem to get there ahead of us somehow even though we tend to be faster. We must be taking a more scenic route I guess. Bergamo is also a reasonable sized city so getting in takes some navigating around in heavy traffic. But the drivers here are usually good; aware and tolerant of cyclists. The biggest part of the city lies below an ancient city that is perched up on a hill. You can drive up there or take yet another funicular, which we did. But before we did that we parked our bikes at the B&B and left on foot to go meet Lyndsay, our youngest daughter, who was meeting us on her way to Geneva from Marakesh in Morocco. After a bit of looking we found her for a happy reunion. We then took the funicular up to the old city to have a look around and find some supper. Lyndsay’s boyfriend Jon “secretly” arrived from Marseille to meet us as well. Here are some of the sites:
Como Sightseeing Day
22 JunWe took yet another funicular ride up to the village of Brunate which is above Como so again we are able to get a birds eye view of this end of Lago di Como and again it was breathtaking.
The rest of the day was spent looking at villas and war memorials, eating gelato of course, drinking cappuccini and strolling along the shoreline pathways watching the people and the lake denizen. We also found the Duomo and even managed to take in part of the Sunday mass which was in Italian so probably our souls are still in need of saving.
For supper Rob found a restaurant that specialized in salads which was wonderful as we’re tiring of the usual Italian menus of pasta and pizza. There were about 4 pages of the most creative salads you could imagine. Mine (Tara’s) was called Melone Ripieno and was made with melon, arugula, chicken, tomatoes, avocado, peas and chicken. Yumm!
Bellagio to Como
21 JunThe ride today began quite suddenly as we left the driveway of the hotel and immediately started our ascent to the summit of the Madonna del Ghisallo. It was about 600 meters up on switchback roads, some probably 10% or more. It was a bit tough but “non c’è male” (not bad) in the cooler morning temperature and with fresh legs. It took about 65-70 min, slower than the serious cyclists who have light bikes and no luggage, but a reasonable pace for us tourists. The top is literally a cycling shrine as this route has been a fixture in countless races, including the Giro D’Italia in many years. The chapel is bursting with bikes and jerseys of famous Italian and international cyclists. Then there are statues of some of those cyclists, a cycling museum, and many cyclists who had climbed the route that morning. We attracted much interest there with our tandem bikes, they are unusual amongst all the racing bikes.
The rest of the ride was pretty easy, mostly down, into Como the city, still on Lago di Como. We wandered around the waterfront a bit, looked at the Duomo, and enjoyed some refreshments at a bar. I tried an Aperol finally. I keep seeing others with this orange colored and flavoured drink but hadn’t tried it yet. Also it was recommended by David Rocco, an Italian-Canadian cookbook writer that George follows on Twitter. It was good, refreshing and not too sweet, a little bitter.




















































