Alba Rest (?) Day 2

10 Jun

Enough resting. Today we planned a route through the beautiful Piemontese countryside, more or less to Barolo and back. Barolo and a very specific 1800 hectares are the home of the nebbiola grape used to make the Barolo wines of course. The same grape grows elsewhere in this area but it has different character with the soil conditions and each micro climate. We climbed a few hills, made easier without our usual luggage, but we still did not exactly boot up them. We backed away from one planned road and found an alternate once we saw the slope and the 20% grade sign. 10% we can do, 20 no thanks.
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Back at the B&B we relaxed in the garden under a large umbrella in the 33° heat. We decided to ride and find a restaurant for dinner, which was easy enough except for the complete lack of wine with the meal. Che pazzo! (that’s crazy)

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Oh No! Cyclists!


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The Scenery From The Local Supermercato


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Out in the Country


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Pause in the Battle


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A Break in La Morra


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By the Barolo Wine Museum


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Alba Rest Day 1

9 Jun

We booked 3 nights in a B&B 5kms out of Alba partly because it is a restful spot that had very good reviews. We like to have a rest and a better look around every few days. Also around Alba is primo cycling and wine territory so we’re doing both.
Katharine is still not 100%, no wonder with the tough day yesterday, so just the 3 of us went into Alba. We negotiated getting a local bus back and forth although we mistakenly got the scenic route back. The centre of Alba is reserved for pedestrians so we wandered. There are lots of churches of course and we went in the main cathedral. It had some impressive history starting from the romans with multiple rebuilds along the way. A little man silently led us around to see the hidden treasures and finally to the donation box, of course.
Nella, our hostess, cooked a lovely 4 course meal for us and we were done for the day.

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Up A Tower


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In The Cathedral


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Wandering


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B&B Mammanella


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And Pears

Acqui Terme to Alba

8 Jun

Today’s ride was tough. The temperature was high, about 30 C, and the terrain hilly. The other complicating factor was that Katharine was better but still recovering so lacked horsepower. We all made it but it was challenging, even for the healthy ones, poor Katharine!
The day began with a 10% grade climb up 180 meters in elevation. There were several more significant climbs later in the day also but we managed by rewarding ourselves with lemon soda and ice cream along the way.

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However the views were spectacular. Countless hillside vineyards, beautiful homes, hilltop villages, gardens, even some ancient ruins. So once you get to the top it seems worth the climb.

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We found our B&B outside of Alba without too much trouble. We were a bit ahead of our buddies and found it easily but their GPS led them a little astray and caused them to do a few kms extra. But now we’re here for 3 nights so we can all recover from a tough ride. It was a wonderful day of holidaying with great friends in a beautiful country.
For supper our B&B host took pity on us and drove us to and from a restaurant as there wasn’t one close by, I guess we looked “stanco” (tired). Another great view of wine country there.

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Salice Terme to Acqui Terme

7 Jun

The day began with uncertainty as Katharine had developed tummy troubles during the night and wasn’t sure she could ride. She made it only 15 kms down the road before succumbing to her illness. Her hubby Rob managed to get her a cab to transport her to the next hotel 70 kms down the road. She took the panniers and Rob rode solo on their tandem the rest of the way. It looked a bit odd but he managed just fine with the lighter load.
We traveled out of the Po valley with wheat and corn fields into the hills where the vineyards dominate the land. Before we reached the hills today at one point it felt like we were already climbing yet it looked flat. After about 20 minutes of this George discovered that he had left the parking brake on. I guess he wanted more of a challenge. 45 pounds of gear, 72 kms, and 30 degrees wasn’t enough.

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As you can see in the picture above the roads we choose are quiet and inviting.
The weather today was unexpectedly warm.  We  had to do a bit of climbing today so tougher than yesterday, good thing Katherine abandoned the ride.

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Once again this city has thermal baths but instead we opted for a regular swimming pool with cool water to refresh ourselves.

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We found Katharine again tucked into bed for the day at the hotel and starting to recover. Hopefully tomorrow she will join us.

Milano to Salice Terme

6 Jun

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The first day of cycling is usually out of a big city and can be challenging due to traffic, getting used to European roads and drivers, and GPS that loses satellite contact around tall buildings. Today was no exception, plus we had an additional problem that we didn’t figure out until much later. While still in the busy downtown area of Milano we kept being directed to go the wrong way down one-way streets. We naively thought this was the Italian way and went along with the confusion. Later after being directed by the GPS to go around a traffic circle in the wrong direction George remembered that he had taken the track from a route going the opposite direction!
The ride was a nice gentle first day with no climbing to speak of and the mileage was moderate at 76 km. The first half of the ride once we left Milano was following a trail alongside a canal to Pavia, so very relaxing.
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We ate lunch in a park beside the Po river.
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The temperature was good to start but by afternoon was reaching the high twenties so we were definitely feeling it and appreciated our arrival at the hotel in Salice Terme. There are thermal baths here but we opted out as we were too warm from the ride.

London

2 Jun

Finally the day has come to get back on the road again. This time we are starting in London and then going to northern Italy for 3 weeks of cycling. Of course our daughter Erika is in London, completing her Master’s degree, and is presenting one of her 2 final recitals so we could not have missed it. We are on the trip fully with our good friends and longtime tandem – ites Katharine and Rob, who we also cycled with in Tuscany last year.
Our Air Canada flight went smoothly and on time.

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Half Empty Plane


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London Town

The plane was far from fully booked so each of us grabbed a 3 seat row and attempted some limited sleep which helped in passing the time if nothing else. We checked the bikes in to the left luggage place at Heathrow and hit the Piccadilly line for the cheap trip into London.
We didn’t have a lot of time in London but got around to a few sites. The hotel we had selected (St. Althans) worked out well. We went out for supper with my cousin Poul and daughter Emilie as well as Erika the first night. The second evening was devoted to Erika’s concert and celebratory dinner. She played 2 very difficult pieces very well for an hour of solid music. We are very proud.

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Public art in Trafalgar Square


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East or West


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Waiting at Heathrow

London – days 23–26

28 Jun

The final few days of our holiday were spent in London, UK taking in Erika’s final recital at Guildhall and helping her get moved out of her flat. We flew from Pisa to Gatwick airport where we were able to store our bicycle and equipment bag for 8£/bag/day, found our train into Victoria station, and then found the Dockside Hotel, our last booking.com reservation. Tara’s father Morley and his partner Sharon were already there, also at the end of their European holiday, so we met them and Erika for a London pub meal that evening.
The following day Morley and Sharon flew home to Vancouver and we explored London a bit. We visited the Courtauld Gallery in Somerset House which is an outstanding collection of art and not so big to be overwhelming. It was once a private collection and had been donated. Our favorite was the collection of impressionist and late impressionist paintings, especially Manet’s barmaid. There happened to be some school groups visiting at the time so we were able to eavesdrop on some of the discussions about this and other works.
Later that day we wandered around the Southbank area and then over to Hyde Park to see the Princess Diana Memorial and enjoy a cup of tea on the shore of the Serpentine Lake. Again we found a pub meal of traditional British fare before meeting Erika at the Phoenix Theatre for a performance of “Once”, a musical theatre production she had chosen.
The next day was Erika’s recital so we made our way to the Guildhall
music hall and (anxiously) listened to her 50 min. performance of Debussy, Busoni, and Chopin. It went very well, even she was pleased, and we were able to meet some of her peers, instructors and benefactors.
We helped her pack up the remainder of her things, move some to a friend’s flat and then met George’s cousin Poul for a visit and an Indian meal. His flat is located close to the hotel so that was convenient.
The next day we were up early for our morning flight home to Calgary. All went smoothly except for Erika’s bag being overweight, to be expected when you are moving over the Atlantic.
Now we are home again to work some more to save money for our next European cycling adventure, although we are hoping for a little less adventure next year and have developed some new strategies to keep our valuables and documents safe.

Pisa – day 22

23 Jun

Final day on the road for this edition and I planned a very light run of 21km into Pisa. Our B&B was just a block from the piazza antifeatro and exactly the kind of accommodation that works best for us. Our genial host Giuseppe had a secure place for bike storage a few blocks away. He recommended a few good restaurants, what sights to see, supplied a typical breakfast and charged a reasonable price for the room.
We negotiated the cobblestones of the empty Sunday morning streets, picked up some lunch groceries, and rode south. The weather had cooled to very comfortable temperatures the last couple of days, much better for cycling.
The ride to Pisa was quite gentle, only about 20 kms and very little uphill. The excitement of the day was a tunnel which turned out to be straight forward as it was well lit, only 600 meters or so and 2 lanes wide. We rode to the leaning tower to take a photo of it with the bikes and then made our way back to the hotel where we began our tour. The afternoon was spent disassembling the bikes and packing up for our flights out the next day. We enjoyed a final meal of pizza in one of the piazzas and celebrated a successful tour with wonderful friends.

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Half the team on the cobbly wobblies leaving our nice B&B and Lucca


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The excitement of the day was doing 45km/hr downhill in the dark through this km long tunnel

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The Giro di Tuscany 2013 comes to a close with the triumphant ride back to the Hotel le Torre

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Note still more checklist revisions, some involving care and spares of passports, sunglasses, wallets, and phones

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So it turns out there's a lot of stuff happening in Pisa tonight

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... like a parade

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... and a vintage car rally (seriously beautiful Alfa Giuletta Special Sprint shown here)

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Up the Arno where Galeons were racing but we missed it

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An A for ingenuity as the chicken clog dances to the music of the banjo


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Last trip to the Tower.

Lucca – day 21

22 Jun

We reluctantly left the Villa Sonnino by San Miniato for our ride to Lucca. It was a quiet and somewhat hidden refuge in a forest, so peaceful after the boisterous party in Poggibonsi the previous night. We had a bit of trouble getting on the correct roads again today and had to do a few u turns to get back on track. The GPS likes to change the route on us so we have to keep an eye on it. We were also delayed by another flat tire on our friend’s bike, the fourth for them this trip.
The route today was relatively flat and easy, also shorter than all the other days. However the traffic was a bit heavy as it was a Saturday. We arrived a bit early to check in at the B&B so headed to the main piazza for a gelato and a look around. European piazzas are a great place to people watch, we often do this. Later we were able to get into the accommodations and put the bikes in a secure location. After a quick cleanup we ventured out again to explore. We climbed up the tower with the trees growing up top and got a great view of Lucca and the surrounding area. Then we just wandered around, looking at cathedrals, statues, more piazzas and the wall/walkway that surrounds Lucca. We had supper in a great ristorante recommended to us that was right beside a large gathering of some type, wedding, reunion or something so that was interesting to watch also. We will miss the warm evenings and outdoor dining we enjoy most days.

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Getting ready to leave the luxury of Villa Sonnino, a 4 star hotel for 70€


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The piazza antifeatro in Lucca, another fascinating people watching spot/gelato stop


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We climbed the Torre Guinigi, which has had 7 oak trees growing on it since the 16th century


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A wizened italian gentleman with pipe and more modern accessories


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We ate supper next to a huge outdoor banquet

San Miniato – day 20

21 Jun

We left Poggibonsi after a not at all restful sleep. The electronnica beat went on until 2:30 am, and we only had a fan, but no air conditioning.
Onwards we went on a relatively easy day as the trip winds down, with the planned highlight being to one of the most heavily visited places in Italy, San Gimignano. I have mixed feelings about these sort of places. They have every kind of touristic inducement to spend money, tons of people and noise, but on the other hand, all that started for a reason, which is usually still intact.
We climbed out of Poggibonsi, rode about 15km and went for coffee and did some shopping in San Gimignano. It is spectacular because of the setting and the sheer number of towers in the town. There was a manageable number of tourists there on this day but it another month and it will be crazy.
The rest of the ride north to San Miniato was supposed to be straight forward but we did get surprised a couple of times by short sharp rises unaccounted for by Mr. Garmin.
At the end of the day we also ran into some trouble finding our Villa despite being all over it by GPS. Finally we realized it was on top of the heavily forested hill right beside us, and we found a gravel trail up and onto the grounds. That turned out to be the service entrance but no matter. Soon one of the staff saw us and welcomed us warmly as though they had been waiting all day for our arrival. A couple of young guys even hauled our luggage up to our rooms for us. What luxury, and what fun!

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Pushing it up a street in San Gimignano


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Heading north to San Miniato but looking back at San Gimignano. Yes those are clouds but they mostly burned off soon after.


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It's all about grapes and olives in the fields here.

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Creativity in finding a place to dry the laundry is usually needed