geeteetravels

Today we rode 60 kms from Mirepoix to Carcassone.  We got an early start as we were a bit worried about wind and rain, but it turned out fine.  It wasn’t too hard a ride, only one climb that was notable.  We are considerably lighter this year and can feel the difference.  When you have to haul everything you bring, you learn to pack efficiently.
To date the countryside has mostly been flat and filled with wheat and barley, and beans of course for the cassoulet. As we climbed today it turned into beautiful pastoral lands with lots of grazing limousine cattle, goats, and even donkeys. As we cruised down the other side of the hill vineyards appeared until that was all we saw.
Carcasonne is a city with a medieval walled inner city.  It was important as a Cathar stronghold which was eventually taken by the Catholics.  It is quite magnificent to see from a distance (think Kevin Costner and Robin Hood)  However the current city is not from that time, it was  reconstructed in the 19th century according to records and what was left.  Also, the city has been constructed with certain features that would not have been present then.  So it is interesting historically but really just quite touristy. 
We plan to have a rest day here tomorrow to let our sore behinds recover and look around.  We are staying in a hotel called La Bastide, close to the walled city, an old building remodeled into a hotel with a great view of the tiled roofs and a cathedral.  The woman at the front desk was very patient with our basic French and very helpful about explaining things about the city.  That doesn’t happen too often.
Hopefully we will have a warm.sunny day to get a good look around.

Rolling green hills.

Entrance to la Cité (the medieval city)

I REALLY want to ride that train!

View from the hotel room window.

We thought for sure we would be getting wet today as the forecast was pretty certain. We woke to grey sky and lots of wind (mortal enemy of cyclists the world over) but no rain. This part of France bordering the Pyrenees is famous for winds like the Mistral which in the winter blows for days on end and drives people mad. But not in summer… We headed out regardless after pumping the tires up a bit, and with the captain fully fueled on Cassoulet. Our destination was Mirepoix, one of the fortified cities associated with the battles between the catholic church and the cathars around 1200. Now it is a destination mainly noted for the beautiful central square which is encircled by 13th and 14th century houses which stand on very stout, and artfully carved, 700 year old oak columns and beams.
Off we rode with a gusty strong side wind which is difficult to deal with on a heavily loaded tandem which presents itself as a large sail. We also got to do a bit of climbing, going over 3 small passes on the way straight south headed in the direction of the Pyrenees. So it turns out the rain didn’t show and the sky cleared rewarding us with a clear view of the mountains with just a touch of snow remaining. A good ride for our second day out with some sore bits and pieces remaining from day one. I’d also like to make you aware the captain takes a lot of extra punishment being up front and in fact I am a bit of a mess. Sunburned face and arms, 6 or 7 peculiar insect bites, a swollen bee sting on my chest, and a friction blister caused by my deck shoes. Tara has none of these but as usual collects her daily chain ring impression on her left leg.
Other than the above we arrived in good shape and found a cafe to sit in the sun and watch the tourists and admire the square.
Tara had had enough of the local cuisine based largely on duck and goose fat so we dined on the universal food – pizza. We had an interesting experience with our waiter who thought he understood more English than he actually did, and us who thought our French was completely comprehensible. After the pizza I am sure I said I needed some desert, but a few  minutes later a cheese and ham crepe showed up. What could we do but eat it?

Entering Pyrenee country.

Whose is whose?

Extraordinary carving on the beam ends.

Today was our first official day of the 2nd annual french tandem tour.  Getting out of the hotel with a long bike and baggage is always tricky and today was no different.  Then we had to navigate city rush hour traffic with our long and wide vehicle and we’re out of practice.  But we managed it without any accidents and found the Canal du Midi, our course for the day. This is a canal that was dug in the 17th century connecting the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, starting in Toulouse and joining the Garonne River, to simplify the transportation of goods.  The canal has many locks also which today are used by tourists boats.  The path beside the canal is also well used by cyclists and walkers.  It is lined with plane trees thus is nicely shaded.  There were many people and boats along it today so an interesting place to cycle.  We rode along it most of the 68 kms today before finding the road into the city of Castelnaudry.  Unfortunately we had our 2nd flat tire of the trip just as we entered the city but luckily it was a front tire, much easier (for George) to change.
This city is known as the birthplace of the dish cassoulet, a bean and duck casserole, which George is anxious to try but I may pass on.  Meat dishes here can be a bit risky.
We had an enjoyable first day.  See our canal photos below.

The now familiar shoulder shot while cycling along the canal.

Snack break.

There were a lot of boats using the canal system, some without much width to spare.

Getting floated to the next level.

The Cassoulet came and went; great energy for the next day's ride.

Last day here before we hit the road. In retrospect we should have arranged to have the first day’s hotel available when we arrived in the morning, and then left today. Beautiful warm sunny day (25°) and I need sunscreen after neglecting it yesterday. We took another of the self-guided walking tours and hit another museum/gallery. Sat on the bank of the Garonne for lunch and I ate my lovely baguette sandwich while Tara had more yogurt, muesli, and fruit.
We came back to the hotel early so I could get at the bike. I had scored at a big sports store, replacing the CO2 cartridges I had confiscated. I then fixed the flat, inflated the tires, and did a few adjustments. Ready to go I think.

Early coffee in the sun.

The local (almost) free bike system, used heavily by the Toulousians.

Attracted to plants that actually grow.

Catching rays at lunch.

On the bank of the Garonne, a free ride to the Atlantic.

A few 15th century wood frame houses remain.

We slept late due to jetlag and utter exhaustion, it felt great.  For breakfast George had a delicious looking chocolate croissant while I had to settle for the usual cereal and fruit as I am not keen to test out the french health care system. 
Our first stop was the Augustin museum in a 12th century  monastary.  We enjoyed the collection of gargoyles and the more modern paintings/art by Toulouse Latrec, Manet, and others. Next we set off on a walking tour of 16th century Toulousian mansions.  This was a prosperous time for the city due to the pastel dye industry. 
Along the way we also enjoyed various parks and cafes.  No rain today. 
For supper George wanted Cassoulet, famous in this area, so we found a good restaurant with a Cassoulet special and were seated. Unfortunately they were out so the hunt for good Cassoulet continues.
We assembled the bike in the hotel dining room (very accommodating hotelier) and discovered a flat front tire so the search for CO2 cartridges becomes more real.

I love gargoyles.

Depiction of a damsel's nightmare.

Narrow streets and old mansions.

Canal due midi, our bike route starting Wednesday.

We flew into Toulouse in an uneventful manner, at least as uneventful as traveling with a tandem can be. There still was the bit when I had to remove most of the intricately packed bike from the case for a personal inspection because it would not fit through the x-ray scanner even though the case is within normal luggage dimensions. And there was the confiscation of 6 CO2 cartridges (in checked luggage).
No matter! We are here! The Toulouse airport and bus into the city was a breeze, unlike the zoo on the riviera last year. Found the hotel easily, left the luggage at the desk until we could check in 4 hours later and went to look around. It was showering fairly heavily but so what; it is forecast to be much improved tomorrow on. We had some good luck and some bad. First Sunday of each month museum and gallery entrances are free in France (today). But coming a little before tourist season gets fully underway means some attractions are closed for renovations, which was the case for a contemporary gallery we set out for in the rain. Again, no matter, lots to see and drink and eat. We went back, checked in, and had a very sound 2+ hour nap before looking for dinner.  Most restaurants are shut Sundays but that merely cut down the number of choices to something manageable. After a low key crêpe supper we are finally crashed for the night!

Gearing up for the Grand Prix in Montreal

Starting the trip with bubbles.

Plane trees have beautiful coloured bark when wet.

A wee bit damp out

The proper end to a day in Toulouse

Howdy, we are going to chronicle our tandem travels, and we’re at it again with the upcoming trip beginning June 20th, 2015!