Day in Überlingen (the name means over reach)

22 Jun

We started the day with a panoramic boat tour of this part of Lake Konstanz. It’s a very large lake, the 3rd largest in Europe. The water was very calm the sun was shining so it was a pleasant ride. While out on the lake a Zeppelin flew right over us, something we haven’t seen before.

It is huge!

Many towns and cities line the lakeshore.

We spent the rest of the afternoon looking around Überlingen and walking on the promenade.

Hotel not recommended.

View of the lake from up high.

A very interesting and bizarre sculpture by local artist Peter Lenk.

More interesting carvings.

An ancient tower, part of the old walled city.

Hansel and Gretel house?

Beautiful fuschias.

In the evening we found a herring festival with music, refreshments and food.

A choir of mostly men singing and playing folk tunes.

We opted to not take in the eating of the herring but did enjoy the music and a glass of wine.

Donauradweg(Danube pathway) to Lake Konstanz

20 Jun

Today’s ride was a bit rainy but not as bad as we thought it would be. Also not much climbing so our muscles got a break. We followed the Danube pathway for about half the distance. Through much of this part of Germany you find an amazingly well developed network of paved cycle paths so you hardly have to deal with car traffic.

The Danube

There’s our friends just ahead.

There are many places where we would pass over or under the highway or railways.

George with all the rain gear.

Our destination today was Lake Konstanz or Bodensee as the Germans call it. It’s a large lake that borders Germany, Austria and Switzerland. It’s lovely and a popular tourist spot.

Enjoying some well deserved ice cream.

The sun finally came out at the end of the day.

One interesting thing we learned today was that June 20th is Corpus Christi (body of christ) day in this part of Germany. It’s a national holiday and just about every business is closed including grocery stores. There were some bakeries open but unfortunately Tara must avoid wheat due to allergy problems so today proved challenging as one needs fuel when cycling all day. She had to resort to McDonald’s, not someplace she frequents often, where she ate a burger without the bun and some french fries! 😨Not a typical meal for me.

Up out of Freiburg

19 Jun

This morning we met up with Rob and Katharine who had flown to Europe two days later than us. They caught up by staying only one night each in Strasbourg and Freiburg. We actually caught up to them right on the bike trail this morning leaving Freiburg.

The route today was to Donaueschingen on the Danube so we switched major rivers for a day. We had to climb most of the day and it was hot, 32° and sunny. Tough going as our muscles still need to grow some more! We actually pushed the bike up part of one section as a 15% grade and a loaded bike and our current level of conditioning don’t go together.

The top end of the big hill, thank goodness!

We also had a bit of trouble with our planned route as it sent us down a forestry road which was not good enough for a tandem road bike. Luckily we met a German couple from Stuttgart who were cycling as well. They were lovely and had a map! We were directed out of the forest to the nearest piece of asphalt and then flew downhill at 45km/hr on a great road for the next 10k to a café with ice cream.

Post ice cream and happy for the last 6km

That’s about it for the day as we were thoroughly focused on our hurtin’ muscles and not taking pictures. Maybe more tomorrow when it’s flatter and maybe (gasp!) rainy.

Black Forest ride

18 Jun

Today we did a loop out of Freiburg into the Black Forest. We travelled through some very quaint villages with names like Endingen, Botzingen and Shaufhausen.We rode over a couple of steep passes so were thankful to not have all our gear, it was hard enough. The forest areas were beautiful and quiet except for the birds.We stopped for coffee and streusel (only George gets streusel) in one of the villages.

There were vineyards and lots of other food growing along the way as well as good vistas.

Strasbourg to Freiburg

17 Jun

It is a joy to finally get riding after the flights and trains with a large and heavy case. We get to leave that all behind and hop on the bike and go, it’s liberating. Here is our starting point at Le Grande Hotel.

Today’s route was fairly flat and straightforward, following canal pathways and then the Rhine. It was very quiet and serene, very little traffic to deal with. We have got used to riding with the Italians on the road so this was a notable difference.

We saw lots of bird life along the way.

Once in Freiburg we were amazed at the sheer number of people commuting by bicycle, it puts us Canadians to shame.

Strasbourg day

16 Jun

Despite the time confusion our bodies felt we both managed to get a good night’s sleep. We started the day with building the bike. Well mostly George assembles it, I have the minor role of holding the bike up, attaching the water bottle cages and providing moral support.

The hotel had a nice covered garage to build in and park the bike under which was good because it rained buckets while we were at it. The sky soon cleared though and turned warm and sunny.

We went on a walking tour with a rented audio guide and map from the tourism office. This worked well as Strasbourg has a very interesting history sitting in the borderlands of France and Germany. It was also a strategic port on the Rhine so that also influenced its history greatly. The rivers and canals are central to the geography of the area and also make it very pretty in the present day.

We had a simple supper of the local specialty which is a variation on the pizza theme. It’s called by french or german names, either tarte flambée or flammenküchen. Either way it is a very thin crust with a creamy cheesy sauce and traditionally onions and bacon. Very yummy in our example (no pics, gone too fast).

I love how there are no barriers around these trams. Not happening in North America, we can’t be trusted to use our brains to save ourselves.

2019 The Rhine (mostly) Route

15 Jun

Hello everyone from Le Grand Hotel in Strasbourg France where we are about to embark on another tandem bike tour. This time we are not in Italy – crazy right? We start here and go clockwise in a loop which includes the black forest, the Danube, Lake Konstanz, follows the Rhine to Basel, and then tours Alsace Lorraine on the way back to Strasbourg. Phew!

Today we flew Westjet’s 787 Dreamliner direct to Paris and then hopped on the high speed train (TGV) to arrive 200m from our hotel. This is a very good thing when you are lugging 32kg of bike in a box plus everything that goes with it. It was a nice flight on the new aircraft with those sexy slender carbon fibre wings waving at the moon.

We went for a walk through the maze of pedestrian streets which begin right by our hotel. We had to try and stay awake besides needing some supper and wanting to see a bit of Strasbourg.

The streets were busy with tourists and locals out for their evening stroll, as well as countless (not kidding) bike meal delivery dudes zipping around the pedestrians. We ate at a crêperie, one of our go to favourite type of restaurants. Hmm, will have to actually cycle in Brittany some day… Here are a few of the things we saw.

Genova to London

7 Jul

The volobus ride to the airport this time was uneventful, no pickpocketers that preyed on us. There was a big celebration in the city today so buses were rerouted but no problems for us. Once again we weren’t charged any extra for the bike, 2nd year in a row on British Air. Smooth flight.

We stayed at the Bloc hotel again at the airport, such a convenient solution to storing the bike for a day and no travel in the morning to catch a flight. Anything to make the actual trip easier is a good choice and worth a bit more expense.

We travelled into London via the Gatwick Express, this time using the oyster card, and saved a few pounds. We rode to Euston Station to meet Erika who was coming from Apsley where she’s directing the musical “Rent”. We had hoped to go there and see some of their rehearsal but time didn’t allow. While waiting for her we wandered around the area for a while looking at some historic squares with various memorials, statues and flora to read about and admire. This area of London (Bloomsbury) is a famous intellectual area of London with several universities and was home to artists and authors such as Virginia Wolfe and Charles Dickens in the past.

Had a nice (short) visit with our daughter then back to Gatwick for our last sleep of the holiday.

Arrivaderci, until next time.

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I think it’s Zermatt poking up through the cloud on the left

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A quick visit and dinner with Erika

Finale Ligure to Genova

6 Jul

Our last day of riding on this holiday was a beautiful sunny day again, we’ve had almost perfect weather the whole time. It’s been fairly warm by Canadian standards, between 25 and 30 celsius, but not bad for Italy in summer.

We headed up the coast passing through many seaside towns and cities such as Noli, Savona, Varazze, Arenzano and then into Genova. This part of Liguria is so densely populated that you never really feel like you left a place and came to a new one, they just blend together. The resort towns are all quite beautiful with beaches, bars, shops, and beachgoers everywhere. Now that it’s summer holiday time it is getting quite busy.

There was another bike pathway between Varazze and Arenzano about 10 kms, which we took but it wasn’t as good as the other 2 we rode. The surface wasn’t as smooth and there were less services available but it got us off the busy road for a while.

Back at the Hotel Chopin we got the bike dismantled and again wondered where the time went. It felt like we had just begun yet it was over. Time to start planning for a new adventure.

When out for dinner that evening we (Tara) unfortunately spotted another rat. Perhaps we won’t come back to Genova. Living in rat-free Alberta makes us a bit sensitive on that subject.

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Verezzi and Finalborgo

5 Jul

Today again we headed for the hills out of Finale this time on the west side of the city up to Verezzi, yet another Borgo più bello d’Italia. This one is very well preserved, maybe the best we’ve seen, and not very busy, maybe because it is a bit hard to get to up a steep switchback road. There was a small outdoor concert area within it also which would have been fun but no performance until after we’ve left.

Then we headed a bit farther up into the hills through a few more towns and beautiful hilly countryside. A lovely ride. ☺️

We finished the loop at Finalborgo which is the medieval part of Finale Ligure also very interesting although not a special classification like some of the others.

We spent the rest of the afternoon on the beach and swimming in the Mediterranean as it’s the last chance before heading back home.

We had a delicious dinner of tagliatelle in the old centre, mine with porcini mushrooms and George’s with cinghiale (wild boar).

How to stay cool when it’s cooking out

All set up for a show; great to see these spaces in use. And the local postie’s scooter.

Warning! If your gloves are being held together by salt and grime don’t wash them.

Checking out the history of Verezzi.

At one of the two gates into Finalborgo.

The view back down the coast; there are a lot of people clinging to this coastline.