La Rochelle

3 Sep
La route Rochefort à La Rochelle

Today’s ride from Rochefort to LaRochelle was entirely on the Velodyssey, the French section of the European cycle route system, so no cars at all to speak of, only bikes. The temperature was about 25 Celsius, much more comfortable. Also the ride was relatively short, only about 48kms so our legs and butts were feeling fine.

On the way out of Rochefort we rode past an interesting bridge: a platform suspended on cables running back and forth over the river. This is actually the way we should have come into Rochefort, not over the big car bridge that we did. After about 20km we came to the coast of the Atlantic ocean. We have seldom been anywhere near the Atlantic so it was exciting to see. The first thing we noticed was that there were large open sandy beaches, just like in North America. Along the Mediterranean and Agean the beaches are mostly covered with privately owned areas covered with lounge chairs and umbrellas where you pay for access. It was the perfect lunch stop.

We arrived in LaRochelle easily and located our accommodation. We have found that it is sometimes a bit of a puzzle to gain entry as these apartments are not necessarily manned, rather done without any human contact, just a lock box on the outside. This was again the situation. It is good in terms of Covid but not so good for helping people orient to the area. For this one and the previous one the hosts appear to be on site but then say that they are unable to greet you for some reason. Possibly it helps them avoid paying extra taxes if it is less like a hotel. (just our theory)

We spent the evening and the next day exploring around the LaRochelle harbour and old town. This is a beautiful city! So many tourists here and so many restaurants, all surprisingly full. There doesn’t appear to be any Covid here. 🤔

The entrance to the harbour is dominated by 3 towers, one of which is a lighthouse. There are also many arcaded streets so that the vendors could sell their goods during bad weather. We learned there is a strong connection to Quebec (New France) here due to being an eastern port of Europe with much trade back and forth (furs, wine, salt and slaves from Africa-yikes!) Samuel de Champlain was born here in 1567 and sailed from this area in the early 1600’s to establish New France. He died in Quebec. One of the streets in La Rochelle is cobbled with stones from Quebec. The stones were used as ballast on the ships sailing back to France.

The following day we rode over a big bridge from La Rochelle to the île de Ré. This island is right beside the city and a very touristy destination with several seaside towns, beaches, shops, camping, oyster farms, salt marshes and a network of cycling trails like nothing ever seen before. We happened to go on a Saturday so it felt like everyone was on a bike. This is a good thing for the most part but some riders just don’t know how to behave so we had to be alert. Nevertheless we had a wonderful day of riding around this beautiful island. It was especially nice to ride sans paniers, we felt light as a feather.

Ready for the day’s ride
La Mer, technically l’océan Atlantique
The two towers guarding once again against those pesky Anglos
I walked 50m from our apartment to my favourite boulanger for a breakfast croissant and pain au chocolat and was besieged by a 5 minute downpour
There was a covered market nearby and oysters are the thing (and anything from the sea) in this area
The place is jumping! All along the large harbour front it was packed with people, pubs, ice cream, oyster bars, and restaurants
The view out to sea with the third tower and functioning lighthouse
Art in the harbour with a “black sun”
Just another bad selfie with the “Chain tower” and the “Saint Nicholas tower” helping out
The “Lantern tower”, still useful as a lightouse
Yarn bombed bikes even
Pug resemblent (by that I mean ugly, no offense to the dog) all electric Citroen
In the old town most walkways were arcaded, a sign the place had money as it was constructed
A half-timbered house from the middle ages hosting a Poke restaurant, also a thing around Aquitaine
We have eaten our share of the delicious melons from the Charente area, for good reason
Heading over to the île de Ré we had another 5 minute shower so we dived under a tree. Crossing to the island is via a 3km long bridge with a separated bike lane
Port of La Flotte on the île de Ré
Harvesting salt has been an industry for centuries, and the area has many salt marshes
A beach on île de Ré complete with all manner of the latest wind powered craft
On our last evening promenade in La Rochelle we noticed all the birds congregating on the clock tower, one of the city gates

5 Responses to “La Rochelle”

  1. Rob's avatar
    Rob September 4, 2022 at 5:16 pm #

    Ohhhh!! The scenery! The food! The weather! (Rain – usually we find a restaurant rather than your favoured tree 😁) Nice hats BTW. Definitely needed and welcome in the heat. While we’re at it, the humidex (with smoke) is 32° at home today. You’re not missing anything.

    • gundesen's avatar
      gundesen September 5, 2022 at 7:24 am #

      Katherine would love the cycle paths here.

  2. margofiala's avatar
    margofiala September 4, 2022 at 11:36 pm #

    We were also amazed at the nice Atlantic beaches in Northern Spain, lovely white sand and all open to the public. Gorgeous!

    • gundesen's avatar
      gundesen September 5, 2022 at 7:23 am #

      The sand isn’t white here, normal Sandy colour but open public beaches! Nice to see.

  3. Ruchi-Singh's avatar
    Ruchi-Singh May 23, 2023 at 6:51 am #

    Great, Quality Content for The Ultimate Tour Guide, A lot of thanks for sharing, kindly keep with continue !!

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