Kastela to Split, ferry to Ancona

Our short ride into Split was early on a Saturday morning so traffic was relatively light. However we still encountered one very rude tour bus driver (on an empty 3 lane road) who was determined to let us know that he didn’t want us on the road so drove past us very closely while laying heavily on his horn. We will not miss this characteristic of Croatia and look forward to riding somewhere where cyclists are accepted and welcomed. We recognize that Croatia has a much different culture and history than what we’re accustomed to and it’s important to acknowledge these differences and not expect everywhere to be like home. Travel is enlightening…but still no excuse for obnoxious driving.

Getting on to the ferry was easy, we had no difficulties. It was a beautiful day and we had smooth sailing all the way to Ancona. We prebooked some reclining seats so that helped pass the time as it was a 9 hour crossing. We didn’t think to bring the charging cords for the phones up on deck so we had to ration our use. We didn’t see much while at sea except for one baby sea turtle spotted by me (Tara) right beside the boat but I wasn’t quick enough to get a photo unfortunately. Our hotel in Ancona was fairly close to the port so that also went smoothly except for the usual climb from sea level. There’s no parking of any kind here so hauled the bike up to the 3rd floor and into our room. It is a good place to hang clothes from.

The next day was spent doing the usual city walks to see all the sites. Ancona has some very original looking beaches. No sand here either, just rocky, with many concrete walls and walkways where people lay out their towels and mats. There were also some interesting “caves” that had been dug out of the side of the cliff and finished like cabins with tables, chairs, fridges, etc all very personalized. People store in them whatever they might need at the beach like boats or paddle boards, parasols, etc, bring food and spend the day there. We’ve seen a lot of beachy places, this one is quite unique.

We strolled up then down a long shaded pedestrian avenue ( Viale della Vittoria) that goes from one end of the town to the other or one waterfront to the other. Ancona is situated on a “hook” shaped piece of land with water on both sides. There is a large war memorial situated at one end of the Viale and on the hill overlooking the beach which is very striking. There is also the citta antica to explore with cathedrals, towers, arches, piazzas and palazzi which involved much climbing by foot. The principal cathedral is San Ciriaco who is the patron saint of Ancona. The temperature was 33C that day so we definitely needed a few cool refreshment stops along the way. Ancona is significantly less crowded than Split, a pleasant change, but a beautiful small Italian city with lots of character and sites to see.

The next day we hauled the bike back down to the street and rode south of Ancona to Portonovo, a remote beach area accessed only by boat or a steep hiking trail from the road. We didn’t opt for the actual beach, just to do a bit of riding and see the countryside. It did, however, involve some very steep hills but as the saying goes, no view without the climb. It is a relief to be back on Italian roads, the drivers are used to bikes and figure out how to share the roads, much more enjoyable. It is very hot right now unfortunately, 30-35C, so we have to work at staying hydrated. George has been suffering from heat rash on his legs which looks bad but doesn’t really bother him otherwise. It may not clear up until we get back to Calgary the way the weather looks now.

Tags: 2023, Adriatic North