geeteetravels

We were all looking forward to this day since we planned to begin one of the trip highlights – the Italian alpine lakes. First we would have to ride through some rain (not great) but with much cooler temperatures (finally a break). As usual I planned the straightest shortest route so there would be hills before arrival at Lago di Maggiore but mostly just a gradual climb to the higher lakeside elevation. We started riding in the rain and were caught in one really good shower but it was virtually done by lunchtime. In fact we all noticed we made better time due to the cooler temps. This is really the first time in 4 years that we have had any significant rain, so we are still OK about that.
The lake is truly beautiful with hills and mountains coming right from the lake. The shoreline road wasn’t too busy to navigate with new vistas at every turn. Once in Stresa it reminded us of the Riviera somewhat with loads of foreign tourists and old grand hotels lining up. Copious shops, restaurants, and gelato places, along with the tourists, makes for a busy but pleasant stroll.

Tags: 2014

After a nice breakfast we were packing up our bikes when an elderly gentleman began scolding us in Italian for parking our bikes where we were told to. Apparently we were misdirected by the young lady who checked us in, however it was mostly a problem for the old man who was a caretaker of some sorts and seemed a bit senile. We gave him something to do for the day I think however I felt sorry for his wife who had to deal with him after.
The ride out of Torino was fairly straight forward but it is a big city and it was close to 15km before we saw “country”. The intersections in Torino are big and the traffic lights don’t seem to totally be in control so you need to be really alert. It’s good there are two of us watching. Also what do you do at a green light and a stop sign?

At our usual morning market stop we chatted with an elderly bike rider who was totally fit and kitted out well in cycling gear. This being Saturday there are many cyclists on the road, it’s a very popular sport here.

Today the temperature finally broke so only 27° by the time we stopped, and it could rain. Our stop today is just a truck stop kind of location because we needed a half way point between Torino and Stresa on Lago Maggiore. Not much to see but a decent hotel and restaurant anyway.
Actually, speaking from an after supper point of view, it is a very good restaurant, and since the clouds are clearing there is a view!

Tags: 2014

Our sleep the night before was not ideal due to the heat and lack of air conditioning. I had forgotten how important it was to look for that when searching for hotels in these areas. However I guess it’s better than the cool wet weather at home.
We started out with a city tour aboard a double decker bus with English commentary on the sights around the central part of Torino. The city was and remains an important site for royal and governmental residences, palaces, gardens, and business. There is also the usual abundance of churches here as well as what used to be a Jewish synagogue at the end of the 19th century but it has been transformed into a national cinema museum. It is called the Mole Antonelliana and provides a spectacular view of Torino if you ride the elevator to the top, which we did.
We also spent a few hours in the Palazzo Reale looking through the lavishly decorated rooms where the Savoy dynasty was housed until it was sacked by Napoleon’s troops then inhabited by King Carlo Alberto and Queen Maria Teresa. In front of the Palazzo was a large piazza which displayed some delightful sculptures by a contemporary Chinese artist named Xu Hong Fei all depicting a full bodied woman enjoying different activities and just life.
The guys then opted for a trip to the car museum while Katharine and I went back to the hotel for a clean up and siesta before supper.
The Museo nazionale dell’automobile proved to be worthwhile, telling the history of the car from an Italian and European perspective (a lot of FIATs), and a good motor racing section as well. On the way back to the hotel we took the metro which was sleek, fast, and modern. Nice to be in a city that has recently spent a lot of money on upgrades for the Olympics!

Tags: 2014

Asti to Torino was expected to be a steady climb, Torino being closer to the Alps. I also planned in a good hill at the end just ’cause and of course so we could get the view. The road was quite busy with lots of trucks but for the most part everyone behaved. At one point there was quite a traffic jam but we inched our way up the shoulder passing everyone who had gone by us the previous 20 minutes. Unfortunately the view coming down the hill into Torino wasn’t as good as it could have been due to a heat haze obscuring the Alps, and lots of forest close to the road also blocking the view. Torino is a big city, and has been prosperous for hundreds of years which means lots of tall fabulous buildings and lousy GPS reception… so we struggled a bit finding the hotel. Then they had no record of our Venere.com reservation but still found us rooms for the same price but suspiciously without air conditioning. It is still seriously hot here so sleep was not easy. Tomorrow will be a visit the city day so we better go figure out what to do.

Tags: 2014

Another very warm day, already in the mid 20’s at 9:30 am when we started. The ride began with a steep climb up to Monticello D’Alba on a road with many switchbacks to decrease the steepness. We are certainly getting our fill of climbing again on this trip, George looks for the hilliest places to ride.

Once we reached the top we mostly stayed there and followed a ridge where you could see down both sides into the valleys below. Again a very scenic area with hilltop towns, castles, and vineyards. 

At the end of the ride we finally descended into the city of Asti, famous for Asti Spumanti, except we weren’t able to try any. The bar we found didn’t have any so we settled for prosecco instead. We also found a good museum/gallery to look at and then supper on a big piazza before calling it a day. Thankfully our rooms were air conditioned as the temperature hit 35 degrees that day.

Tags: 2014

Enough resting. Today we planned a route through the beautiful Piemontese countryside, more or less to Barolo and back. Barolo and a very specific 1800 hectares are the home of the nebbiola grape used to make the Barolo wines of course. The same grape grows elsewhere in this area but it has different character with the soil conditions and each micro climate. We climbed a few hills, made easier without our usual luggage, but we still did not exactly boot up them. We backed away from one planned road and found an alternate once we saw the slope and the 20% grade sign. 10% we can do, 20 no thanks.

Back at the B&B we relaxed in the garden under a large umbrella in the 33° heat. We decided to ride and find a restaurant for dinner, which was easy enough except for the complete lack of wine with the meal. Che pazzo! (that’s crazy)

Tags: 2014

We booked 3 nights in a B&B 5kms out of Alba partly because it is a restful spot that had very good reviews. We like to have a rest and a better look around every few days. Also around Alba is primo cycling and wine territory so we’re doing both.
Katharine is still not 100%, no wonder with the tough day yesterday, so just the 3 of us went into Alba. We negotiated getting a local bus back and forth although we mistakenly got the scenic route back. The centre of Alba is reserved for pedestrians so we wandered. There are lots of churches of course and we went in the main cathedral. It had some impressive history starting from the romans with multiple rebuilds along the way. A little man silently led us around to see the hidden treasures and finally to the donation box, of course.
Nella, our hostess, cooked a lovely 4 course meal for us and we were done for the day.

Baby Peaches in the Garden

Tags: 2014

Today’s ride was tough. The temperature was high, about 30 C, and the terrain hilly. The other complicating factor was that Katharine was better but still recovering so lacked horsepower. We all made it but it was challenging, even for the healthy ones, poor Katharine!
The day began with a 10% grade climb up 180 meters in elevation. There were several more significant climbs later in the day also but we managed by rewarding ourselves with lemon soda and ice cream along the way.

However the views were spectacular. Countless hillside vineyards, beautiful homes, hilltop villages, gardens, even some ancient ruins. So once you get to the top it seems worth the climb.

We found our B&B outside of Alba without too much trouble. We were a bit ahead of our buddies and found it easily but their GPS led them a little astray and caused them to do a few kms extra. But now we’re here for 3 nights so we can all recover from a tough ride. It was a wonderful day of holidaying with great friends in a beautiful country.
For supper our B&B host took pity on us and drove us to and from a restaurant as there wasn’t one close by, I guess we looked “stanco” (tired). Another great view of wine country there.

Tags: 2014

The day began with uncertainty as Katharine had developed tummy troubles during the night and wasn’t sure she could ride. She made it only 15 kms down the road before succumbing to her illness. Her hubby Rob managed to get her a cab to transport her to the next hotel 70 kms down the road. She took the panniers and Rob rode solo on their tandem the rest of the way. It looked a bit odd but he managed just fine with the lighter load.
We traveled out of the Po valley with wheat and corn fields into the hills where the vineyards dominate the land. Before we reached the hills today at one point it felt like we were already climbing yet it looked flat. After about 20 minutes of this George discovered that he had left the parking brake on. I guess he wanted more of a challenge. 45 pounds of gear, 72 kms, and 30 degrees wasn’t enough.

As you can see in the picture above the roads we choose are quiet and inviting.
The weather today was unexpectedly warm.  We  had to do a bit of climbing today so tougher than yesterday, good thing Katherine abandoned the ride.

Once again this city has thermal baths but instead we opted for a regular swimming pool with cool water to refresh ourselves.

We found Katharine again tucked into bed for the day at the hotel and starting to recover. Hopefully tomorrow she will join us.

Tags: 2014

The first day of cycling is usually out of a big city and can be challenging due to traffic, getting used to European roads and drivers, and GPS that loses satellite contact around tall buildings. Today was no exception, plus we had an additional problem that we didn’t figure out until much later. While still in the busy downtown area of Milano we kept being directed to go the wrong way down one-way streets. We naively thought this was the Italian way and went along with the confusion. Later after being directed by the GPS to go around a traffic circle in the wrong direction George remembered that he had taken the track from a route going the opposite direction!
The ride was a nice gentle first day with no climbing to speak of and the mileage was moderate at 76 km. The first half of the ride once we left Milano was following a trail alongside a canal to Pavia, so very relaxing.

We ate lunch in a park beside the Po river.

The temperature was good to start but by afternoon was reaching the high twenties so we were definitely feeling it and appreciated our arrival at the hotel in Salice Terme. There are thermal baths here but we opted out as we were too warm from the ride.

Tags: 2014